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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's a few shots of a job I've been working on at the Wastewater Treatment Plant in Barre. We converted the heating/hot water over from propane to oil fired, new boiler, HWT, rebuilt the pumps, repaired the air inlet damper, and have been working fixing some piping and line leaks in the building.

Most of these shots are "in process", we still have some odds and ends to do and some insulating.

Enjoy.

New Peerless boiler, model SC-06 Hot Water. 405,000 BTU/H Gross. Beckett CF500 Burner


SuperStor SSU 45 Stainless Steel Indirect Water Heater, supplies sinks and 1 shower


B+G centrifugal pumps. New bearing assemblies/seals and motor work.


Motorized air inlet I repaired.


Roth 400 gallon double wall safety oil tank with leak alarm.


The boiler room.


Yours truly.


Post some pics of work projects you are proud of!!!

Jerry
 

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Nice job for sure, I just love nice, clean work like that .

I am having an extream home make over done on our place on the interior in the next 12months and I can only pray they will do good work like yours.


Wolf
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for the compliment. Most of the time people don't appreciate how much harder it is to do clean work versus sloppy, crooked work.

Here's what my solder joints look like. I hate runs and boogers on them.



Again, thank you. This particular boiler is kind of a little guy compared to some I have done.

Jerry
 

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Thank you for the compliment. Most of the time people don't appreciate how much harder it is to do clean work versus sloppy, crooked work.

Here's what my solder joints look like. I hate runs and boogers on them.


Again, thank you. This particular boiler is kind of a little guy compared to some I have done.
Jerry
That is cool Jerry, I have a " Earth Energy Heatrer and Air con " and the guys do a good job on it when we service it but you are correct no see's the pride that goes into the details, such as joints ,cut,s wirring.

It all counts down the road when additional service is required on stuff.

Keep it up

Wolf
 

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That is cool Jerry, I have a " Earth Energy Heatrer and Air con " and the guys do a good job on it when we service it but you are correct no see's the pride that goes into the details, such as joints ,cut,s wirring.

It all counts down the road when additional service is required on stuff.

Keep it up

Wolf
What do you know about wirsbo floor heat??? Looking to put it in slab of shop, 4000 sq/ft
 

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What do you know about wirsbo floor heat??? Looking to put it in slab of shop, 4000 sq/ft
Absolutley nothing, but I heat my new 30X60 shop with the overhead radiant propane ( no gas in the country) , had all involved been thinking I could have had free air conditioning for it with our artisian well that we use for the home air con, they also could have just run the floor pipes and I could have run the well water through it in the winter and BAM heat , our well water is a consitant 55 d , but such is live.

Good luck with your shop

Wolf
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What do you know about wirsbo floor heat??? Looking to put it in slab of shop, 4000 sq/ft
I have done a few radiant jobs, mostly residential, did a house that was 3500 sq.ft.

Radiant can be done so many different ways, I do it the most technically simple way with my own mixing stations and loops. The radiant is a great way to heat, especially in a slab, just bear in mind that the temperature rise/drop takes a very long time, so it it designed to keep the building at a constant temperature, not be set back at night because recovery is too long. But radiant is the most efficient and comfortable way to heat an area. You can typically run it 2-4 degrees cooler than a conventional forced air system and be just as comfortable.

There are tons of companies that sell tubing. Just bear in mind that 90% of them are owned by a company called Upunor so there is almost no difference in the tubing from brand to brand. But prices will vary. For slab installation, make sure you do edge insulation and it makes a huge difference to install insulation under the tubing, too. You will need the specs on the building (size, ceiling height, windows, insualtion factor, slab thickness, desired indoor temp vs. outdoor temp, etc...) so you will want to have the project designed. As a contractor, I don't do my own tubing selections or runout designs, I leave that to the manufacturer's representative. They will usually do it for free if you are buying their brand tubing.

This will likely be the most EXPENSIVE heating system you've ever imagined, but the comfort will be unparallelled and the fuel cost will be lower than other types of systems. Do a little research on the net, you'll find that there are so many different ways to install it that it may be mind boggling......Once you have an idea what you really want, I will try to help you where I can.

Basically you need to decide what your primary goal is......economical installation (lower cost) which is not necessarily a bad thing, or is price less of an issue and you want maximum comfort and fuel savings. That's the basic question.

Oh....by the way, a heat loss calculation is a good place to start. Typically radiant systems struggle to heat areas where the heat loss is more than 35 BTU/ sq. ft. So if your building heat loss is in excess of 140,000 BTU/Hr. you can still run the radiant but you will likely need another form of supplemental heat as well such as fan coil units or some type of baseboard/radiator.

Good Luck!!!

Jerry
 

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I have done a few radiant jobs, mostly residential, did a house that was 3500 sq.ft.

Radiant can be done so many different ways, I do it the most technically simple way with my own mixing stations and loops. The radiant is a great way to heat, especially in a slab, just bear in mind that the temperature rise/drop takes a very long time, so it it designed to keep the building at a constant temperature, not be set back at night because recovery is too long. But radiant is the most efficient and comfortable way to heat an area. You can typically run it 2-4 degrees cooler than a conventional forced air system and be just as comfortable.

There are tons of companies that sell tubing. Just bear in mind that 90% of them are owned by a company called Upunor so there is almost no difference in the tubing from brand to brand. But prices will vary. For slab installation, make sure you do edge insulation and it makes a huge difference to install insulation under the tubing, too. You will need the specs on the building (size, ceiling height, windows, insualtion factor, slab thickness, desired indoor temp vs. outdoor temp, etc...) so you will want to have the project designed. As a contractor, I don't do my own tubing selections or runout designs, I leave that to the manufacturer's representative. They will usually do it for free if you are buying their brand tubing.

This will likely be the most EXPENSIVE heating system you've ever imagined, but the comfort will be unparallelled and the fuel cost will be lower than other types of systems. Do a little research on the net, you'll find that there are so many different ways to install it that it may be mind boggling......Once you have an idea what you really want, I will try to help you where I can.

Basically you need to decide what your primary goal is......economical installation (lower cost) which is not necessarily a bad thing, or is price less of an issue and you want maximum comfort and fuel savings. That's the basic question.

Oh....by the way, a heat loss calculation is a good place to start. Typically radiant systems struggle to heat areas where the heat loss is more than 35 BTU/ sq. ft. So if your building heat loss is in excess of 140,000 BTU/Hr. you can still run the radiant but you will likely need another form of supplemental heat as well such as fan coil units or some type of baseboard/radiator.

Good Luck!!!
Jerry
I have a plan in mind, have done some research, but was confused on supplyers. I'm going with spray closed cell ins, and then reg ins on walls, ceiling fill be sprayed 1st then same...
40x100 is size, going with gas water heater, 200 bills @ 55 bucks is what neighbor paid last year, some it all sonds great, except the initial cost,

e-me @
[email protected]

I'd love to throw ideas past ya if you don't mind!!!!
 
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