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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Before 8:00 am in the busy LA traffic. Waiting for the traffic signal light to turn green, the spyder is on neutral "N" and when it's time to go, I shifted it to first gear and the Spyder just shuts off completely. I turned the ignition key to OFF then back to ON again and no power. Embarrassed and at the same time nervous, got off the bike and push the Spyder away from traffic into safety. That took a couple of minutes parked it on the side and I again turn the ignition ON and the lights came back on and it shows VSS and ABS lights on the board. I turn the ignition Off and back ON again, press the M button and the start and Spyder started as if nothing happens. I will let the dealer know about it and if somebody had a similar issue, please share what you did and + input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
 

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I would take it to the dealer and have them look if there are any codes that come up on the computer. It is not a good sign but at the same time, you were able to get it started with no more problems. Sure you just didn't stall it and don't want to fess up..JK>.
 

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Before 8:00 am in the busy LA traffic. Waiting for the traffic signal light to turn green, the spyder is on neutral "N" and when it's time to go, I shifted it to first gear and the Spyder just shuts off completely. I turned the ignition key to OFF then back to ON again and no power. Embarrassed and at the same time nervous, got off the bike and push the Spyder away from traffic into safety. That took a couple of minutes parked it on the side and I again turn the ignition ON and the lights came back on and it shows VSS and ABS lights on the board. I turn the ignition Off and back ON again, press the M button and the start and Spyder started as if nothing happens. I will let the dealer know about it and if somebody had a similar issue, please share what you did and + input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I've had my spyder for about 3 wks. It's an SE5. It shut off on me 4 times so far. Twice when first starting out and twice at the stop sign at the end of my street. I've been letting it warm up longer (5 minutes as opposed to 1-2 minutes) prior to heading out and it seems to help. Don't know why it needs so long to warm up. I'm in warm weather and I don't go more than 2 to 3 days in between rides. Any suggestions? Thanks. Spyderwoman
 

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I've had my spyder for about 3 wks. It's an SE5. It shut off on me 4 times so far. Twice when first starting out and twice at the stop sign at the end of my street. I've been letting it warm up longer (5 minutes as opposed to 1-2 minutes) prior to heading out and it seems to help. Don't know why it needs so long to warm up. I'm in warm weather and I don't go more than 2 to 3 days in between rides. Any suggestions? Thanks. Spyderwoman
Spydie likes it hot. Just doesn't feel right to me unless it's up to 2 bars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are there issues with the SE5? I'm getting a little nervous from what I'm reading on the board. The shifting issues and now this.
******,

My spyder is a SM5. This is the first issue that happened to it since I got it last Feb. 2008.
I drove it back after work and it seems that everything's back to normal but I'm still going
to take it back to the dealer to check why it acted up this morning. I don't mean to scare
anybody, I'm just asking if someone had similar problem so I'll know what to do if it happends
again.
 

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******,

My spyder is a SM5. This is the first issue that happened to it since I got it last Feb. 2008.
I drove it back after work and it seems that everything's back to normal but I'm still going
to take it back to the dealer to check why it acted up this morning. I don't mean to scare
anybody, I'm just asking if someone had similar problem so I'll know what to do if it happends
again.
i hear you. I haven't bought my spyder yet and I'm a little indecisive on whether to get the SM5 or the SE5 and I just want to gather as much info as I can. Let's face it the Spyder is not cheap. I'm just glad there is a forum like this so that people can share information. Thanks for sharing. I'm sure it will be fine.
 

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I just purchased 2011 Spyder RT Limited three days ago and it has shut off on me four times. It has nothing to do with it running warm or cold. All four times it has happened at a red light which is really bad when the light turns green. All four times it shut off completely as I was just starting to move on the green light. Boy I am ticked off about this. After all I spent $28K for this machine!!!! I am contacting couple of dealers in Southern California to see if they have experienced such a problem. I will post my findings.
 

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I just purchased 2011 Spyder RT Limited three days ago and it has shut off on me four times. It has nothing to do with it running warm or cold. All four times it has happened at a red light which is really bad when the light turns green. All four times it shut off completely as I was just starting to move on the green light. Boy I am ticked off about this. After all I spent $28K for this machine!!!! I am contacting couple of dealers in Southern California to see if they have experienced such a problem. I will post my findings.
The obvious question here is :
Could this be an inadvertent Kill Switch issue?
 

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I have the same issue on a 2008 PE edition. It will be driving fine down the road then instanly shut down. It doesn't give any codes. I can usually pull over reset the key and sometimes it will start sometimes it takes a few minutes to reset. It can be nerve rattling if in traffic.
 

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With the two 2008 Spyders that are just shutting down. Two possibilities come to mind if the kill switch was not inadvertently pressed.
1. Weak battery?
2. Did you model come with foam in the lid of the front fuse/relay box? If not add some foam and if so think about replacing or supplementing the foam so that the relays are held solidly in place. The original foam takes a set after a while and no longer holds the relays in completely. I had to add a thin layer to my original foam after about 18k miles and two years.
With all three, the lid to the box could be loose.
I will say though that with loose relays, you usually get codes and possibly limp mode rather that just a shut down. Weak battery is more likely even for the new RT as some dealers are not doing a proper initial charge.
Over course there are about a bazillion other things it could be, these are just two easy things to check. Good luck on a solution to all of you. A dead Spyder, especially in traffic is a scary thing.
 

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With the two 2008 Spyders that are just shutting down. Two possibilities come to mind if the kill switch was not inadvertently pressed.
1. Weak battery?
2. Did you model come with foam in the lid of the front fuse/relay box? If not add some foam and if so think about replacing or supplementing the foam so that the relays are held solidly in place. The original foam takes a set after a while and no longer holds the relays in completely. I had to add a thin layer to my original foam after about 18k miles and two years.
With all three, the lid to the box could be loose.
I will say though that with loose relays, you usually get codes and possibly limp mode rather that just a shut down. Weak battery is more likely even for the new RT as some dealers are not doing a proper initial charge.
Over course there are about a bazillion other things it could be, these are just two easy things to check. Good luck on a solution to all of you. A dead Spyder, especially in traffic is a scary thing.
Thanks for the info. I had it in the shop for almost two months last fall, for the same problem. Scared to take it back.
 

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sorry to hear of your problems. My 2009 SE5 spyder is in the shop for 4 weeks now 3 dealers 4 times in for the same problem.. e current dealer and BRP do not have a clue, a short list of the repair attempts are gps, computer, wiring harness, additional grouds, instrument cluster and I am sure a whole laundry list that few are sharing The problem started sporaticly from purchase date. At around 600 - 1000 miles it started more frequently and is at the point of non not being able to ride it. Again, the current dealer has put countless hours going back and forth, dealer tech to brp tech to the point of the dealer tech stating " where do you want us to ship the Spyder to". All I can say is I hope your machine is not a repeat of what I am experiencing. Good luck and any of those out there who have with similar problems good luck. The stalling presents a very serious safety risk to the rider as we are all aware of, just think of the idiot sitting behind you at a light texting and when the light changes you become a statistic. If you see it becoming a problem notify BRP and do all you can do to open a file and save every bit of documentation of the problem. If all is not resolved very soon I will certainly be sharing a whole lot more. A powerful consumer is one who educates themselves and avails themselves of all resources at their disposal. Good luck from someone who is living a serious similar if not the same issue.
 

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I have 2022 can'am spider with 6800 miles on MLK Holiday while in traffic it cut off on its own, It crank back up ' But it did it 4 times, The temperature was normal a yellow light flash that said VSS then flash off. I saw that the rpm gauge slightly moving up and down as if it was running rough like a tune up i drove approx 30 miles back home and it rode like champ with no problems. I would like to know will this problem continue to happen.
 

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I just purchased 2011 Spyder RT Limited three days ago and it has shut off on me four times. It has nothing to do with it running warm or cold. All four times it has happened at a red light which is really bad when the light turns green. All four times it shut off completely as I was just starting to move on the green light. Boy I am ticked off about this. After all I spent $28K for this machine!!!! I am contacting couple of dealers in Southern California to see if they have experienced such a problem. I will post my findings.
Yes' my can'am 2022 spider did the same identical thing. I need answers aswell. !!!!
 
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