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Front drive pulley


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#1 speedbug

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Posted 23 October 2014 - 10:24 AM

Wife has a 2008 GS, on our way  back from Laughlin to Phoenix she lost power had it towed home. Thankful for AAA ,I found the front pulley bolt had snapped and front drive pulley gone. I am trying to use a bolt extractor to remove the threaded part still in shaft. Ride Now said if it does not come out gear box will need to be opened up, and it would be around 2000.00.has anyone heard  of this happening.


Edited by speedbug, 23 October 2014 - 10:25 AM.


#2 Stealth11

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Posted 01 March 2015 - 09:52 AM

I have heard of this happening in the past especially when the spyder came out - 2009 and such. Along with this was some damage to the rear hub where the bearing would become loose.

The culprit was over-tightening the belt. On all belt drive bikes including the spyder the pivot center of the swing arm is not 100% inline with the pivot center of the belt or front drive axle center. When the belt is overtightened and the suspension moves up and down the tension on the belt will change. In most case it goes from to tight to way to tight. These chain/belts do not stretch so something has to give. On Harleys the front motor mounts and torque arm will go bad, On Excelsiors the motor mounts and rear hubs are damaged. This is quite common for most belt drive bikes and normally shortened engine mounts life is to be expected.

There is a tendency to use the philosophy of "good and tight" thinking tight is better than loose however there are many advantages to running the belt loose vs tight. On the EH units we would set the slack at 3" or as loose as possible as long as the belt did not rub on the frame. On my Victory I run about 1-1/2 to 2" slack.

One may think the belt would climb and jump but this is not really possible as the belt locks into the sprockets tightly. And the Grimler belts are in fact Chain/belts as they are a direct replacement for the old steel link chain. If you have ever owned a chain drive bike you know too tight is not right and only bad things occur by running a chain "good and tight".

The advantages are many regarding running loose. The belt and sprockets will last longer, getting a stone in the belt while riding gravel will not be a problem as the stone just gets a quick ride, harmonic buzz will be gone as a loose belt will not vibrate, and engine mounts will last forever.

While there are many downsides to running tight there are no downsides to running loose.

 

That is my sermon for this Sunday - Go in peace :)


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#3 Stealth11

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 10:18 AM

I am sure you have the bolt out by now but here is a good tip for removing snapped off bolts

 

Find a washer that has a hole diameter smaller than the bolt size - lay it over the bolt and lay a weld right in the center to fasten the washer to the damaged bolt, next just weld a nut onto the washer and unscrew the bolt.

 

The washer prevents the weld from reaching the shaft or base metal so the washer then become part of the stud and the nut allows it to become a bold again.

 

I have found zero luck with extractors and such and this method is now my first option.


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#4 Trebor

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Posted 23 July 2015 - 08:17 AM

Stealth 11, Speedbug,

 

 This is a very good method of removing a broken bolt, I to have used this method many times, the only issue I have when giving this kind of advise on an open forum is that many people are not aware of the precautions that must be taken when welding.

 

First off the Spyder has many electronic control modules, these are sensitive to high voltage and current spikes. Usualy removing the battery cables is ok but if you do not want to fork our $$$$ for a new control module then I suggest disconnecting all the control modules. 

 

Then there is the fact that you have a gas tank right above the drive sroket in question, this is a very dangerous situation and extreem precaution must be taken when welding in proximity of a gas tank. Removal of the tank would be a good idea

 

And finaly there is the placement of the ground clamp from the welding unit, this shaft runs through the engine via gears and bearings, if you ground on the engine casing then this is going through bearings and gears and can couse damage to these components, we have seen this in machinery many times and it has led to very expensive repairs.

 

Speedbug, if you are going to use this method then please use a large pair of visegrips and clamp it to the shaft without touching the engine casing or the bike frame, clamp the ground wire from the welding machine to the vise grips.


Edited by Trebor, 23 July 2015 - 08:18 AM.


#5 Stealth11

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Posted 18 August 2015 - 09:44 PM

Yes very good advice - it's called brinelling and yes I should have mentioned the ground clamp has to be on the shaft and never allow current to go through the bearing surfaces.

 

Thanks for clarifying this Trebor


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