The stock setup of an RT (and all other models AFAIK) is a simple pressure switch that signals Spyder the operating system you've lost all your oil pressure.
If it goes on at highway speeds the chances are it's also a Buy New Engine indicator as well.
An oil gauge gives you better information on the general health of your engine over time.
If you start seeing drops that progress you know something is going wrong before catastrophe hits.
There are many ways to install an oil pressure sensor.
The pressure sensor goes in to the port on the RIGHT side of the engine that is home of the stock oil pressure switch.
Got the difference?
oil pressure sensor
oil pressure switch.
You need to have both a sensor and a switch because the Spyder expects a switch to be there or you'll get Limp Modes.
The problem with just globbing the switch, sensor and tees on to the existing engine port is that, over time, road vibration can crack the threads and you can start to lose oil.
Nasty business you should try to avoid.
I chose to hook up a flexible hose to the engine and then move the heavy parts to a place I could simply tie-wrap in place (I used the empty space by the radiator)
There's something else you should know about thread sizes.
The Rotax and existing Switch is metric.
M10 X 1.0
The threads on the Sensor I used are NPT 1/8-27
It may appear that the threads are compatible.
DON't BE FOOLED.
Screwing an NPT 1/8-27 into a M10 X 1.0 might look and feel like it will work.
It will leak.
I've drawn up a Parts List using Summit Racing numbers that you can cross reference and a detail of how it comes together.
I purchased a new Oil Pressure Switch just because I've heard they can go bad.
You can use the existing one eo save a few bucks.
See next post for the other drawing.
USE THREAD SEALANT and the CRUSH WASHERS to avoid leaks.
Edited by RattiganRoger, 09 May 2013 - 09:22 AM.