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New or more efficient fan Rate Topic: -----

Poll: Would you buy (71 member(s) have cast votes)

Would you buy

  1. Yes (55 votes [77.46%])

    Percentage of vote: 77.46%

  2. No (16 votes [22.54%])

    Percentage of vote: 22.54%

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#21 User is offline   doctor 

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 05:45 PM

View Postsmokster, on Mar 31 2009, 02:19 PM, said:

I know nothing about engines, but I do know that this conversation has taken a weak personal turn which will end with your vote as a No.

Wasn't trying to offend anyone. All modern engine run hotter now than 20 years ago. It's just not that big of a deal.
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#22 User is offline   dryheat 

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 08:21 PM

View PostCapt.Jim, on Mar 30 2009, 04:33 PM, said:

I live in S. Fl. and mine get's to five bars often, then the fan starts and goes back to four eventually. I also added WATER WETTER, a water surface tensioner , supposed to lower the temp something like twenty degrees, but i didn't notice any difference on the gauge to any great amount. I have to admit i would like to see it at 3 bars all the time, if it ever got to 6 or 7 bars i would start to get nervous. Are the ones getting to 6 or 7 bars going into limp mode and actually overheating? The spyder has a fan made by SPAL, and they offer a programmable fan controller, #fan DMW V3, but it's $165.00, maybe worth the piece of mind to have it come on at four bars, and there are others out there alot less expensive that will work also. If mine was running at 6 or 7 i would put a temp gauge to see what it was actually running at


I'm in Tucson, and I have had the same experience, heat/temp-wise. On the road, 3-4; in town 4-5 in winter, and frequently hits six in traffic in the summer. The fan isn't enough to get it back to 4 bars during the summer. Rather than buy an add-on controller, I would think that it should be a simple software or thermostat change to have the fan come on earlier.

Any of you gearheads out there know what triggers the fan relay? :TgC_emoticon142:
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#23 User is offline   Spyderaddict 

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 10:48 PM

View PostSpyderdog65, on Mar 30 2009, 03:12 PM, said:

I for one would love to see somone or BRP come out with a more effecient fan than what we got my se5 always goes up to 5 or 6 bars and i even have a evoluzione racing air filter witch is a hella of alot less restrictive intake than the stock air box and my bike still seems to run hot specially when im stuck in traffic as long as im moving even on a hot day it dont overheat but if i get stuck in traffic i almost have to shut it off. I still cant believe that is what BRP recommends that u do if u have to sit for long periods of time in traffic they recommend u pull off road and turn off engine to cool down HOW FREAKIN STUPID IS THAT>( HEY I GOT A BETTER IDEA WHY DONT YALL MAKE A MORE EFFECIANT RADIATOR AND COOLING SYSTEM :) Michael



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The Evoluzione race air filter has nothing to do with running 'cooler'. It only allows more O2 into the engine so it can burn more fuel. 5-6 bars shouldn't be of any concern. If your Spyder actually overheats - you'll know it as it will go into limp mode. Have you ever had it go into limp mode?

I notice you say you have a Kewlmetal Spyderweb Radiator Hole Insert, which may restrict airflow. If you're having such serious problems you might want to remove it and see if it helps.
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#24 User is offline   Spyderdog65 

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Posted 02 April 2009 - 03:12 AM

nope ive never went into limp mode when im cruising down the freeway it stays in the 2 to 3 bar range around town it can go in the 4 to 6 bar range and if im riding on a hot day and im stuck in traffic or im on a run and were riding parade style it has gotten as high as 7 bars but it ddint go into limp mode i just figured if it was dam near burning the insides of my thighs then it must be running to hot, like i seen somone elses post why cant they just issue a computer update that makes the fan kick on sooner i dont think that would be to difficult i would think :). and that spyderweb radiator hole insert i dont see how it could be restricting the air flow its pretty thin wire that makes up the web :)...........................Michael
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#25 User is offline   Spyderaddict 

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Posted 02 April 2009 - 11:15 AM

View PostSpyderdog65, on Apr 2 2009, 04:12 AM, said:

nope ive never went into limp mode when im cruising down the freeway it stays in the 2 to 3 bar range around town it can go in the 4 to 6 bar range and if im riding on a hot day and im stuck in traffic or im on a run and were riding parade style it has gotten as high as 7 bars but it ddint go into limp mode i just figured if it was dam near burning the insides of my thighs then it must be running to hot, like i seen somone elses post why cant they just issue a computer update that makes the fan kick on sooner i dont think that would be to difficult i would think :). and that spyderweb radiator hole insert i dont see how it could be restricting the air flow its pretty thin wire that makes up the web :)...........................Michael


Well, while the metal might seem thin - it does add up. Doing a rough estimate by importing a photo of one into Photoshop and doing a pixel count of the same area with and without the web installed - the web takes up around 30% of the area. Could affect airflow. BRP put that big hole in for a reason - for the hot air to escape. Maybe take a hot day sometime and do a comparison with and without for a real-world test.

This is why you don't see screens or grates on the front of jet engines to keep birds out - would cause too much restriction and thus cause the engine to not work as efficiently.

This post has been edited by Spyderaddict: 02 April 2009 - 11:18 AM

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#26 User is offline   ProviderEx 

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Posted 02 April 2009 - 09:27 PM

I have never hit limp mode on my spyder so i guess I have never over heated.
but I do hit 6 bars and some 7 on regular bases. I don't think it is so much that the spyder needs a new fan or a bigger fan, i think the spyder needs better programing in that respect.
the fan should kick on at a lower temp and maintain on for a longer period. it seems as if it comes on at the hgih end of the temp instead of midrange or low end of the scale.
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#27 User is offline   Capt.Jim 

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Posted 02 April 2009 - 10:45 PM

The radiator is too small, you need to buy another radiator and fan, put it on the other side where the oil cooler used to be, run them in series, then buy two controllers, set them for three bars, hope the extra fan voltage doesn,t throw it into limp mode, then cut a hole up in the front of the facia and move your oil cooler up there with some longer plumbing, that's what i did! april fools!

This post has been edited by Capt.Jim: 02 April 2009 - 10:47 PM

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#28 User is offline   widowmaker2011 

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 10:38 AM

View PostTony Mac, on Mar 31 2009, 06:13 PM, said:

Just for giggles I went and downloaded the owner's manual and read through it looking to see if they specify what is a "normal" operating temperature and I couldn't find it anywhere.

Anyone know of and have a link to an official recommendation by BRP as to what constitutes "normal" temperature?


Some may call it apples and oranges but it's not , a liquid cooled internal combustion engine will survive very well at the posted temps I saw from Ken. Yes power does drop off at higher temps , but for comparison , this is right out of our Chevy tech guide for the all aluminum motored vettes which are very suseptable to heat problems..."Both cooling fans operate together. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls and works in conjunction with a series of 3 relays to operate the two electrical cooling fans together at low or high speeds. The low speed is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 226 degrees F. It is turned off when the coolant temperature lowers to 219 degrees F. The High speed is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 235 degrees F. It is turned off if the coolant temperature lowers to 226 degrees F." So the secondary fan doesn't even come on for that motor till 235..... I only use that comparison because that motor can be easily damaged by overheating and the pcm isn't even controlling the high speed fan until 235...
My zrx1200 ran about 225 degrees on hot summer days and I saw 230 in slower traffic. Over on the Honda Board , some of the guys have reported for years that their CBR 954's run about 230-240 on hot days.
Those of you worried that at 235 degrees (almost 7 bars) you are doing damage , don't be. (Now , those of you who use cr*p oil and don't change it often......)

This post has been edited by widowmaker2011: 03 April 2009 - 10:56 AM

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#29 User is offline   ProviderEx 

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 10:44 AM

View Postwidowmaker2011, on Apr 3 2009, 11:38 AM, said:

Some may call it apples and oranges but it's not , a liquid cooled internal combustion engine will survive very well at the posted temps I saw from Ken. Yes power does drop off at higher temps , but for comparison , this is right out of our Chevy tech guide for the all aluminum motored vettes which are very suseptable to heat problems..."Both cooling fans operate together. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls and works in conjunction with a series of 3 relays to operate the two electrical cooling fans together at low or high speeds. The low speed is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 226 degrees F. It is turned off when the coolant temperature lowers to 219 degrees F. The High speed is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 235 degrees F. It is turned off if the coolant temperature lowers to 226 degrees F." So the secondary fan doesn't even come on for that motor till 235.....
Those of you worried that at 235 degrees (almost 7 bars) you are doing damage , don't be.



the last thing I am worried about is damage. I am worried about the power I am loosing going from 4 bars, to 5 bars, to 6 bars and riding at 7 bars. not to mention the crazy amount of heat that gets put out
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#30 User is offline   Spyderaddict 

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 10:47 AM

Good info. Many people automatically assume that running 'cooler' is always better, when in fact the engine and oil will perform best at a certain temp range.
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#31 User is offline   widowmaker2011 

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 11:23 AM

View PostProviderEx, on Apr 3 2009, 10:44 AM, said:

the last thing I am worried about is damage. I am worried about the power I am loosing going from 4 bars, to 5 bars, to 6 bars and riding at 7 bars. not to mention the crazy amount of heat that gets put out


Provider- come on over and ride my Buell if you want to talk about heat.... Oil temp usually sits around 245 degrees. Don't get your right leg too close to the motor if you want any leg hair left... :o

Now as far as the heat getting put out , I contend that by kicking the fan on sooner , MORE heat will be transferred to the rider than is now.

This post has been edited by widowmaker2011: 03 April 2009 - 11:23 AM

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#32 User is offline   johnboy 

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 11:26 AM

Been following the cooling debate for months now. I've come to the conclusion that the engine designers and engineers know more than I (we) do about this matter. My Spydie has run with the temp bars way up high but not gone into limp mode.
I think they knew what they were doing in the design stage !!

f w i w.
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#33 User is offline   jomion 

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 11:33 AM

View PostProviderEx, on Apr 2 2009, 07:27 PM, said:

I have never hit limp mode on my spyder so i guess I have never over heated.
but I do hit 6 bars and some 7 on regular bases. I don't think it is so much that the spyder needs a new fan or a bigger fan, i think the spyder needs better programing in that respect.
the fan should kick on at a lower temp and maintain on for a longer period. it seems as if it comes on at the hgih end of the temp instead of midrange or low end of the scale.


EXACTLY! The fan does a good job of bringing temp down, it just sometimes kicks in a little too late. Remapping or updating the ECU to send the "start fan" cycle should happen between 4 and 5 bars, not 5 and 6, IMHO.
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#34 User is offline   widowmaker2011 

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 11:49 AM

View Postjohnboy, on Apr 3 2009, 11:26 AM, said:

Been following the cooling debate for months now. I've come to the conclusion that the engine designers and engineers know more than I (we) do about this matter. My Spydie has run with the temp bars way up high but not gone into limp mode.
I think they knew what they were doing in the design stage !!

f w i w.


Ditto :beerchug1:
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#35 User is offline   Dudley 

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 12:16 PM

Just wondering at what bar count everyone is running on the thermostat on open road riding. With ambient temperature in the 80s I run 3 bars. Temperatures will be hitting 3 digits soon, so that will probably change.

This post has been edited by Dudley: 03 April 2009 - 01:10 PM

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#36 User is offline   Tony Mac 

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 01:02 PM

View PostDudley, on Apr 3 2009, 12:16 PM, said:

Just wondering at what bar count everyone is running on the thermostat on open road riding. With ambient temperature in the 80s I run 3 bars. Temperatures will be hitting 3 digits soon, so that will probably change.



Good reference. In that scenario I typically run at 4 bars
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#37 User is offline   Director 

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 01:22 PM

View PostDudley, on Apr 3 2009, 01:16 PM, said:

Just wondering at what bar count everyone is running on the thermostat on open road riding. With ambient temperature in the 80s I run 3 bars. Temperatures will be hitting 3 digits soon, so that will probably change.


Hmm, let's see now. I bought my Spyder in October in Ontario. Couple of weeks later, it snowed, and then snowed, and snowed some more. Put Spydie away. Now it's April, still in Ontario, so I can't speak to what it is like to operate my Spyder in ambient temp of 80 degrees or more. It does run three to four bars in temps from the mid-30s to mid-50s though. That much I can say.
Check back with me in a couple of months and I'll let you know how I make out when the temperature actually does get more than lukewarm! :thumbs:

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#38 User is offline   Marc 

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 01:25 PM

View PostDudley, on Apr 3 2009, 01:16 PM, said:

Just wondering at what bar count everyone is running on the thermostat on open road riding. With ambient temperature in the 80s I run 3 bars. Temperatures will be hitting 3 digits soon, so that will probably change.


3 for me with Hindle in those conditions.
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#39 User is offline   Dudley 

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 01:27 PM

View PostDirector, on Apr 3 2009, 11:22 AM, said:

Hmm, let's see now. I bought my Spyder in October in Ontario. Couple of weeks later, it snowed, and then snowed, and snowed some more. Put Spydie away. Now it's April, still in Ontario, so I can't speak to what it is like to operate my Spyder in ambient temp of 80 degrees or more. It does run three to four bars in temps from the mid-30s to mid-50s though. That much I can say.
Check back with me in a couple of months and I'll let you know how I make out when the temperature actually does get more than lukewarm! :thumbs:

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#40 User is offline   trldncr 

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 07:09 PM

View PostMarc, on Mar 30 2009, 07:12 PM, said:

I voted no. I didn't vote no because I live in WNY, but because BRP stated in a past chat on here that 5 or 6 bars doesn't indicate a problem. I normally run 3 or 4, may get 5 at a long stop on a 90F day...but at this point it's not something I am worried about.

I think it would be cool that when the unit was operated at less than 5mph, as when coming to a stop or in heavy traffic that the polarity on the fan would be reversed and force the air back through the radiator away from the rider\s beecause that is what I find annoys me the most
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