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New or more efficient fan Rate Topic: -----

Poll: Would you buy (71 member(s) have cast votes)

Would you buy

  1. Yes (55 votes [77.46%])

    Percentage of vote: 77.46%

  2. No (16 votes [22.54%])

    Percentage of vote: 22.54%

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#1 User is offline   smokster 

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 10:43 AM

Alot of us went thru the summer with our Spyders.
A big concern was running hot, 5-6 bars.
If it were offered, would people be interested in a larger or more efficiient fan that kept the engine runnning a bit cooler?
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#2 User is offline   Spyderjockey 

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 12:05 PM

View Postsmokster, on Mar 30 2009, 11:43 AM, said:

Alot of us went thru the summer with our Spyders.
A big concern was running hot, 5-6 bars.
If it were offered, would people be interested in a larger or more efficiient fan that kept the engine runnning a bit cooler?


I never really had any issues with overheating last summer, but tend to get a little nervous if you get held up in traffic or going to some event with long lines waiting to get in to park and the temp. gauge starts getting 5 then 6 bars. I think it would be a good idea for a more efficent cooling fan. :thumbs:
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#3 User is offline   Tony Mac 

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 12:28 PM

View Postsmokster, on Mar 30 2009, 10:43 AM, said:

Alot of us went thru the summer with our Spyders.
A big concern was running hot, 5-6 bars.
If it were offered, would people be interested in a larger or more efficiient fan that kept the engine runnning a bit cooler?



Oh, yeah. Texas. Summer. 95+ degrees and high humidity. A long stop light. If only it would stay at 5 bars. I often get 6 or even 7 although I've never had it say "overheat" and have never gone into limp mode. Even during what passes for winter here I've had it at 6 bars easily.

Bottom line, these tightly cowled suckers run hot, especially in hot climates. A larger, more efficient fan that came on earlier would be a MUST have for me
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#4 User is offline   PeteT 

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 01:25 PM

Perhaps Ken of Evoluzione will chime in. At one time he had a fan controller that permiited it to come on earlier. I do not see it on the WEBsite now.

There was an older discussion about this on one of the forums and, as I recall, the need for a larger capacity (cfm) fan was less important (aside from fitment) than the need to be able to control the ones we have so that they come on sooner.

But I could be mistaken...

Pete

This post has been edited by PeteT: 30 March 2009 - 04:52 PM

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#5 User is offline   Spyderdog65 

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 02:12 PM

View PostPeteT, on Mar 30 2009, 11:25 AM, said:

Perhaps Ken of Evoluzione will chine in. At one time he had a fan controller that permiited it to come on earlier. I do not see it on the WEBsite now.

There was an older discussion about this on one of the forums and, as I recall, the need for a larger capacity (cfm) fan was less important (aside from fitment) than the need to be able to control the ones we have so that they come on sooner.

But I could be mistaken...

Pete



I for one would love to see somone or BRP come out with a more effecient fan than what we got my se5 always goes up to 5 or 6 bars and i even have a evoluzione racing air filter witch is a hella of alot less restrictive intake than the stock air box and my bike still seems to run hot specially when im stuck in traffic as long as im moving even on a hot day it dont overheat but if i get stuck in traffic i almost have to shut it off. I still cant believe that is what BRP recommends that u do if u have to sit for long periods of time in traffic they recommend u pull off road and turn off engine to cool down HOW FREAKIN STUPID IS THAT>( HEY I GOT A BETTER IDEA WHY DONT YALL MAKE A MORE EFFECIANT RADIATOR AND COOLING SYSTEM :) Michael



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#6 User is offline   smokster 

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 02:55 PM

View PostSpyderdog65, on Mar 30 2009, 12:12 PM, said:

I for one would love to see somone or BRP come out with a more effecient fan than what we got my se5 always goes up to 5 or 6 bars and i even have a evoluzione racing air filter witch is a hella of alot less restrictive intake than the stock air box and my bike still seems to run hot specially when im stuck in traffic as long as im moving even on a hot day it dont overheat but if i get stuck in traffic i almost have to shut it off. I still cant believe that is what BRP recommends that u do if u have to sit for long periods of time in traffic they recommend u pull off road and turn off engine to cool down HOW FREAKIN STUPID IS THAT>( HEY I GOT A BETTER IDEA WHY DONT YALL MAKE A MORE EFFECIANT RADIATOR AND COOLING SYSTEM :) Michael



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how do you really feel? :huh:
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#7 User is offline   trysicl 

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 05:58 PM

I wonder where the owners that voted no live.
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#8 User is offline   Marc 

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 06:12 PM

View Posttrysicl, on Mar 30 2009, 06:58 PM, said:

I wonder where the owners that voted no live.


I voted no. I didn't vote no because I live in WNY, but because BRP stated in a past chat on here that 5 or 6 bars doesn't indicate a problem. I normally run 3 or 4, may get 5 at a long stop on a 90F day...but at this point it's not something I am worried about.
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#9 User is offline   spyryder 

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 06:14 PM

Here's the chart Ken posted last year:

we've done a lot of testing on the rotax engines and have found they do tend to run hot based on the cooling system being a little undersized (we used to make oversized radiators for the mille because of this). normally we like to see them run in the 175° f to 185° f range for best performance. power tends to drop off once we hit 205° f.

but to give you a breakdown of "bars" vs. temp:

1 bar = ~153° f
2 bars = ~171° f
3 bars = ~183° f
4 bars = ~207° f
5 bars = ~223° f
6 bars = ~230° f
7 bars = ~237° f

hope this helps

http://www.spydertalk.com/forums/index.php...;hl=engine+temp
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#10 User is offline   Capt.Jim 

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 06:33 PM

I live in S. Fl. and mine get's to five bars often, then the fan starts and goes back to four eventually. I also added WATER WETTER, a water surface tensioner , supposed to lower the temp something like twenty degrees, but i didn't notice any difference on the gauge to any great amount. I have to admit i would like to see it at 3 bars all the time, if it ever got to 6 or 7 bars i would start to get nervous. Are the ones getting to 6 or 7 bars going into limp mode and actually overheating? The spyder has a fan made by SPAL, and they offer a programmable fan controller, #fan DMW V3, but it's $165.00, maybe worth the piece of mind to have it come on at four bars, and there are others out there alot less expensive that will work also. If mine was running at 6 or 7 i would put a temp gauge to see what it was actually running at
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#11 User is offline   doctor 

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 08:19 PM

View PostCapt.Jim, on Mar 30 2009, 07:33 PM, said:

I live in S. Fl. and mine get's to five bars often, then the fan starts and goes back to four eventually. I also added WATER WETTER, a water surface tensioner , supposed to lower the temp something like twenty degrees, but i didn't notice any difference on the gauge to any great amount. I have to admit i would like to see it at 3 bars all the time, if it ever got to 6 or 7 bars i would start to get nervous. Are the ones getting to 6 or 7 bars going into limp mode and actually overheating? The spyder has a fan made by SPAL, and they offer a programmable fan controller, #fan DMW V3, but it's $165.00, maybe worth the piece of mind to have it come on at four bars, and there are others out there alot less expensive that will work also. If mine was running at 6 or 7 i would put a temp gauge to see what it was actually running at

I don't know why you worry so much about how hot these things get. 5 or 6 bars are no problem, and the more miles you put on them the lower the bars go, with a hindle I get as low as 2 bars and a high of 5 bars. It just maybe too much info for some of you. I've had air cooled motorcycles without any way of knowing how hot they get. They seem to do just fine.
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#12 User is offline   OldSchoolATVer 

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 10:52 PM

View PostMarc, on Mar 30 2009, 07:12 PM, said:

I voted no. I didn't vote no because I live in WNY, but because BRP stated in a past chat on here that 5 or 6 bars doesn't indicate a problem. I normally run 3 or 4, may get 5 at a long stop on a 90F day...but at this point it's not something I am worried about.


May not indicate a "problem", but if the post below is accurate it's also nowhere near optimum :(

View Postspyryder, on Mar 30 2009, 07:14 PM, said:

Here's the chart Ken posted last year:

we've done a lot of testing on the rotax engines and have found they do tend to run hot based on the cooling system being a little undersized (we used to make oversized radiators for the mille because of this). normally we like to see them run in the 175° f to 185° f range for best performance. power tends to drop off once we hit 205° f.

but to give you a breakdown of "bars" vs. temp:

1 bar = ~153° f
2 bars = ~171° f
3 bars = ~183° f
4 bars = ~207° f
5 bars = ~223° f
6 bars = ~230° f
7 bars = ~237° f

hope this helps

http://www.spydertalk.com/forums/index.php...;hl=engine+temp



View Postdoctor, on Mar 30 2009, 09:19 PM, said:

I don't know why you worry so much about how hot these things get. 5 or 6 bars are no problem, and the more miles you put on them the lower the bars go, with a hindle I get as low as 2 bars and a high of 5 bars. It just maybe too much info for some of you. I've had air cooled motorcycles without any way of knowing how hot they get. They seem to do just fine.


I'd say theres reason for concern, there's a pretty big difference between working and working optimally, and a big difference in performance & longevity between 2bars (171) and 6 bars(230).

To just sweep this issue under the rug because you haven't been left stranded or had an air cooled bike with no temp gauge is :blink:

I'm here doing more research thinking again about a Spyder purchase and this is the kind of info I'm looking for, great site Mark.
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#13 User is offline   doctor 

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 10:20 AM

View PostOldSchoolATVer, on Mar 30 2009, 10:52 PM, said:

May not indicate a "problem", but if the post below is accurate it's also nowhere near optimum :(






I'd say theres reason for concern, there's a pretty big difference between working and working optimally, and a big difference in performance & longevity between 2bars (171) and 6 bars(230).

To just sweep this issue under the rug because you haven't been left stranded or had an air cooled bike with no temp gauge is :blink:

I'm here doing more research thinking again about a Spyder purchase and this is the kind of info I'm looking for, great site Mark.
not trying to sweep anything. your car gets just as hot. if there were no gauge you would never know the differince. it's just no problem.
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#14 User is offline   smokster 

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 10:26 AM

View Postdoctor, on Mar 31 2009, 08:20 AM, said:

not trying to sweep anything. your car gets just as hot. if there were no gauge you would never know the differince. it's just no problem.

If my car engine seizes while I am driving, my life most likely wont be at risk, if it happens on a fwy with the Spyder, hate to see the results.
These are somewhat easy issues to look into. Rather put my money into performance of the spyder vs thousands into cosmetics (ie paint jobs) IHO

This post has been edited by smokster: 31 March 2009 - 10:27 AM

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#15 User is offline   doctor 

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 01:32 PM

View Postsmokster, on Mar 31 2009, 11:26 AM, said:

If my car engine seizes while I am driving, my life most likely wont be at risk, if it happens on a fwy with the Spyder, hate to see the results.
These are somewhat easy issues to look into. Rather put my money into performance of the spyder vs thousands into cosmetics (ie paint jobs) IHO

I'm guessing the people who designs these things don't know as much as you seem to do. Maybe you can make something better. All of these engines run in a heat range, and I don't worry about it locking up. If you are so afraid of it doing so, why not just get rid of it. IMHO
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#16 User is offline   smokster 

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 02:19 PM

View Postdoctor, on Mar 31 2009, 11:32 AM, said:

I'm guessing the people who designs these things don't know as much as you seem to do. Maybe you can make something better. All of these engines run in a heat range, and I don't worry about it locking up. If you are so afraid of it doing so, why not just get rid of it. IMHO

I know nothing about engines, but I do know that this conversation has taken a weak personal turn which will end with your vote as a No.

This post has been edited by smokster: 31 March 2009 - 02:31 PM

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#17 User is offline   Spyderdog65 

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 02:57 PM

View Postsmokster, on Mar 30 2009, 12:55 PM, said:

how do you really feel? :huh:


lol apparently i was feeling frustrated that day
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#18 User is offline   smokster 

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 02:59 PM

View PostSpyderdog65, on Mar 31 2009, 12:57 PM, said:

lol apparently i was feeling frustrated that day

We all have them, a ride on the Spyder always helps :beerchug1:
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#19 User is offline   Degaman 

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 04:31 PM

My spyder routinely operates at 4 or 5 bars. At highway speeds it will reduce to 2 or 3 bars, but in traffic, rarely goes below 4. In extremely slow traffic it will go to 6 bars, and has on one occasion gone to 7 and entered limp mode. Any improvement would be a blessing.
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#20 User is offline   Tony Mac 

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 05:13 PM

Just for giggles I went and downloaded the owner's manual and read through it looking to see if they specify what is a "normal" operating temperature and I couldn't find it anywhere.

Anyone know of and have a link to an official recommendation by BRP as to what constitutes "normal" temperature?
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