New or more efficient fan
#1
Posted 30 March 2009 - 10:43 AM
A big concern was running hot, 5-6 bars.
If it were offered, would people be interested in a larger or more efficiient fan that kept the engine runnning a bit cooler?
#2
Posted 30 March 2009 - 12:05 PM
smokster, on Mar 30 2009, 11:43 AM, said:
A big concern was running hot, 5-6 bars.
If it were offered, would people be interested in a larger or more efficiient fan that kept the engine runnning a bit cooler?
I never really had any issues with overheating last summer, but tend to get a little nervous if you get held up in traffic or going to some event with long lines waiting to get in to park and the temp. gauge starts getting 5 then 6 bars. I think it would be a good idea for a more efficent cooling fan.
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#3
Posted 30 March 2009 - 12:28 PM
smokster, on Mar 30 2009, 10:43 AM, said:
A big concern was running hot, 5-6 bars.
If it were offered, would people be interested in a larger or more efficiient fan that kept the engine runnning a bit cooler?
Oh, yeah. Texas. Summer. 95+ degrees and high humidity. A long stop light. If only it would stay at 5 bars. I often get 6 or even 7 although I've never had it say "overheat" and have never gone into limp mode. Even during what passes for winter here I've had it at 6 bars easily.
Bottom line, these tightly cowled suckers run hot, especially in hot climates. A larger, more efficient fan that came on earlier would be a MUST have for me
#4
Posted 30 March 2009 - 01:25 PM
There was an older discussion about this on one of the forums and, as I recall, the need for a larger capacity (cfm) fan was less important (aside from fitment) than the need to be able to control the ones we have so that they come on sooner.
But I could be mistaken...
Pete
This post has been edited by PeteT: 30 March 2009 - 04:52 PM
#5
Posted 30 March 2009 - 02:12 PM
PeteT, on Mar 30 2009, 11:25 AM, said:
There was an older discussion about this on one of the forums and, as I recall, the need for a larger capacity (cfm) fan was less important (aside from fitment) than the need to be able to control the ones we have so that they come on sooner.
But I could be mistaken...
Pete
I for one would love to see somone or BRP come out with a more effecient fan than what we got my se5 always goes up to 5 or 6 bars and i even have a evoluzione racing air filter witch is a hella of alot less restrictive intake than the stock air box and my bike still seems to run hot specially when im stuck in traffic as long as im moving even on a hot day it dont overheat but if i get stuck in traffic i almost have to shut it off. I still cant believe that is what BRP recommends that u do if u have to sit for long periods of time in traffic they recommend u pull off road and turn off engine to cool down HOW FREAKIN STUPID IS THAT>( HEY I GOT A BETTER IDEA WHY DONT YALL MAKE A MORE EFFECIANT RADIATOR AND COOLING SYSTEM
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#6
Posted 30 March 2009 - 02:55 PM
Spyderdog65, on Mar 30 2009, 12:12 PM, said:
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#8
Posted 30 March 2009 - 06:12 PM
trysicl, on Mar 30 2009, 06:58 PM, said:
I voted no. I didn't vote no because I live in WNY, but because BRP stated in a past chat on here that 5 or 6 bars doesn't indicate a problem. I normally run 3 or 4, may get 5 at a long stop on a 90F day...but at this point it's not something I am worried about.
#9
Posted 30 March 2009 - 06:14 PM
we've done a lot of testing on the rotax engines and have found they do tend to run hot based on the cooling system being a little undersized (we used to make oversized radiators for the mille because of this). normally we like to see them run in the 175° f to 185° f range for best performance. power tends to drop off once we hit 205° f.
but to give you a breakdown of "bars" vs. temp:
1 bar = ~153° f
2 bars = ~171° f
3 bars = ~183° f
4 bars = ~207° f
5 bars = ~223° f
6 bars = ~230° f
7 bars = ~237° f
hope this helps
http://www.spydertalk.com/forums/index.php...;hl=engine+temp
#10
Posted 30 March 2009 - 06:33 PM
#11
Posted 30 March 2009 - 08:19 PM
Capt.Jim, on Mar 30 2009, 07:33 PM, said:
I don't know why you worry so much about how hot these things get. 5 or 6 bars are no problem, and the more miles you put on them the lower the bars go, with a hindle I get as low as 2 bars and a high of 5 bars. It just maybe too much info for some of you. I've had air cooled motorcycles without any way of knowing how hot they get. They seem to do just fine.
#12
Posted 30 March 2009 - 10:52 PM
Marc, on Mar 30 2009, 07:12 PM, said:
May not indicate a "problem", but if the post below is accurate it's also nowhere near optimum
spyryder, on Mar 30 2009, 07:14 PM, said:
we've done a lot of testing on the rotax engines and have found they do tend to run hot based on the cooling system being a little undersized (we used to make oversized radiators for the mille because of this). normally we like to see them run in the 175° f to 185° f range for best performance. power tends to drop off once we hit 205° f.
but to give you a breakdown of "bars" vs. temp:
1 bar = ~153° f
2 bars = ~171° f
3 bars = ~183° f
4 bars = ~207° f
5 bars = ~223° f
6 bars = ~230° f
7 bars = ~237° f
hope this helps
http://www.spydertalk.com/forums/index.php...;hl=engine+temp
doctor, on Mar 30 2009, 09:19 PM, said:
I'd say theres reason for concern, there's a pretty big difference between working and working optimally, and a big difference in performance & longevity between 2bars (171) and 6 bars(230).
To just sweep this issue under the rug because you haven't been left stranded or had an air cooled bike with no temp gauge is
I'm here doing more research thinking again about a Spyder purchase and this is the kind of info I'm looking for, great site Mark.
#13
Posted 31 March 2009 - 10:20 AM
OldSchoolATVer, on Mar 30 2009, 10:52 PM, said:
I'd say theres reason for concern, there's a pretty big difference between working and working optimally, and a big difference in performance & longevity between 2bars (171) and 6 bars(230).
To just sweep this issue under the rug because you haven't been left stranded or had an air cooled bike with no temp gauge is
I'm here doing more research thinking again about a Spyder purchase and this is the kind of info I'm looking for, great site Mark.
#14
Posted 31 March 2009 - 10:26 AM
doctor, on Mar 31 2009, 08:20 AM, said:
If my car engine seizes while I am driving, my life most likely wont be at risk, if it happens on a fwy with the Spyder, hate to see the results.
These are somewhat easy issues to look into. Rather put my money into performance of the spyder vs thousands into cosmetics (ie paint jobs) IHO
This post has been edited by smokster: 31 March 2009 - 10:27 AM
#15
Posted 31 March 2009 - 01:32 PM
smokster, on Mar 31 2009, 11:26 AM, said:
These are somewhat easy issues to look into. Rather put my money into performance of the spyder vs thousands into cosmetics (ie paint jobs) IHO
I'm guessing the people who designs these things don't know as much as you seem to do. Maybe you can make something better. All of these engines run in a heat range, and I don't worry about it locking up. If you are so afraid of it doing so, why not just get rid of it. IMHO
#16
Posted 31 March 2009 - 02:19 PM
doctor, on Mar 31 2009, 11:32 AM, said:
I know nothing about engines, but I do know that this conversation has taken a weak personal turn which will end with your vote as a No.
This post has been edited by smokster: 31 March 2009 - 02:31 PM
#19
Posted 31 March 2009 - 04:31 PM
#20
Posted 31 March 2009 - 05:13 PM
Anyone know of and have a link to an official recommendation by BRP as to what constitutes "normal" temperature?

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