[Rokonman]

Can someone give me a short "tutorial" on aligning the drive belt? My belt is riding against the inside flange enough to leave an imprint on the flange.

I have 1400 miles on the unit and I need to know "how" to do the adjustment. I believe I have read all the same comments as everyone else about 1/32" clearance etc. I just need to know how to make the adjustment.

This post has been edited by Rokonman: 30 April 2008 - 01:31 PM

[Nancy'sToy]

Rokonman, on Apr 30 2008, 06:07 AM, said:

Can someone give me a short "tutorial" on aligning the drive belt? My belt is riding against the inside flange enough to leave an imprint on the flange.

Apparently some Spyder techs have either been improperly trained, or mistook what they were taught. Our Spyder has the belt against the flange, too, as did the dealer demo. When I questioned the technician, he said he was taught the clearance should be "a maximum of 1 mm." The book says a minimum of 1 mm (1/32"). First service today, and we're going to have this argument again. I would see your dealer and possibly even ask for a replacement belt and sprocket.
-Scotty

[TharkunRT]

Rokonman, on Apr 30 2008, 03:07 AM, said:

Can someone give me a short "tutorial" on aligning the drive belt? My belt is riding against the inside flange enough to leave an imprint on the flange.

The issue with belt alignment is not a new one, and most of the issue in my opinion/experience is the following.

First all of the BRP documentation simply instructs to raise the rear wheel and adjust the belt within 1mm (1/32") of the internal flange.

When a tech adjusts the belt to specs, and does it in just one adjustment, depending on how much it was out of alignment, it may stay in alignment or not.

What I have observed working with my tech is one needs to make small adjustments, then drive the Spyder a short distance, re-check. This needs to be done till the belt stays within the specs. During the first 2 to 3 hundred miles on a new Spyder, the belt can have a tendency to "walk" either direction on the drive wheel when backing up or making sharp turns. When this happens, once the Spyder has some forward motion the belt should return to the correct alignment. Also during this same mileage you may see some small particles of the belt material in the belt guard and other areas. This is normal and a result of the belt being new.

If the belt is against the inner flange constantly, it is not adjusted properly, and if a tech informs you this is normal, find a different tech.

This post has been edited by Tharkun#409: 30 April 2008 - 10:15 AM

[araneae]

I have looked at a lot of Spyders since I got mine in November and I have yet to see one where the belt was not against the flange. I played with the adjustment using a digital caliper to measuer what I was doing and then riding a few, miles then checking it again. What I found was that if I had any clearance between the flange and the belt it would walk to the outside of the pully when I took it for a ride. For me finding the point where it would just stay against the flange without walking when I rode it is the sweet spot. I also found that this is the point where there is the least rolling resistance on the rear wheel and this could contribute to gas milage. When I started the adjustment process the rear wheel was fairly hard to rotate and it rotates much easier after adjustment. You also need to check the belt tension whith every adjustment to make sure it is not to tight or loose. I use the Gates tension guage and set it to 300-325. The dealership checekd it and it is within spec. Whith the belt adjustment and the Youshi pipe my Spyder has went from 30 mpg to 40 mpg.

Bryan

[Stuart Ostroff]

John:

Here is a compilation of information gathered over time from the forum (from multiple sources) The spring scale is the simplest way to check tension. Tracking the belt by jacking up the rear wheel and running (at idle) in 2nd or 3rd gear will be the 'dynamic' method, and lets you watch the immediate tracking results from very small adjustements on the two (2) 6mm screws on either side of the axle. I haven't actually done this but sounds like the way to go. If you adjust and then drive you might be taking a lot of short rides til you get it right.

Of course you need to pull the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut (36mm socket). If you think your tenison is OK I think you could steer the alignment by only adjusting the screw on the side opposite the belt, and not much any appreciable tension change. I'd suggest turning that screw 5-10 degrees at a time, max.

BTW I'll be home Sunday afternoon if you want to wait for help (and tools). I'm departing Shanghai in an hour for LAX, ATL and Palm Beach. Back to PIT Sunday AM. Stuart
~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The deflection, according to Gates, is 1/64” per inch of span (41”). Therefore, with a 10# pressure at center the belt should deflect 11/16” = 0.688” = 17.5 mm

The 507C gauge method is VERY temp specific / sensitive. With proper tension he measures 800 N at 33 degr, 1050N at 42 degr, 1360N at 63 degr. From the factory the belts are WAY over-tensioned, and the dealers are instructed NOT to check or touch!!!!

Once the tension is set you should check tracking. Jack up under swing arm, lift rear wheel.
Set in 3rd gear and run at idle. Watch belt carefully, adjust to favor flange side, but not climbing! Watch for a couple minutes! Very sensitive adjustments with the two (6mm allen) adjusters.
Note: The Harley belts are concave to track better (?) but this belt is flat, and will migrate to one side.
$29.90 Part # 08-0350 BELT TENSION GAUGE Scale for easy reference
Designed to work with all belt drive models with a 10 lb. specification

Here are the updated belt tension specs; At time of setup the belt tension should be 2000Nm - -
after 300 - 500 miles the tension should be between 1500Nm to 800Nm. Keep in mind BRP states that the belt is not stretching, the tension is changing due to the rubber motor mounts breaking in.
I know it seems like a large variance but thats the spec.

I check my belt tension in the center of the bottom of the belt just behind the rider footpeg, no need to remove anything. The belt is exposed and visible just behind the rider peg. I have the Motion pro spring gauge and I get 11/16" at 10 pounds of force.

[mrfix]

Stuart Ostroff, on May 1 2008, 01:11 AM, said:

John:

Here is a compilation of information gathered over time from the forum (from multiple sources) The spring scale is the simplest way to check tension. Tracking the belt by jacking up the rear wheel and running (at idle) in 2nd or 3rd gear will be the 'dynamic' method, and lets you watch the immediate tracking results from very small adjustements on the two (2) 6mm screws on either side of the axle. I haven't actually done this but sounds like the way to go. If you adjust and then drive you might be taking a lot of short rides til you get it right.

Of course you need to pull the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut (36mm socket). If you think your tenison is OK I think you could steer the alignment by only adjusting the screw on the side opposite the belt, and not much any appreciable tension change. I'd suggest turning that screw 5-10 degrees at a time, max.

BTW I'll be home Sunday afternoon if you want to wait for help (and tools). I'm departing Shanghai in an hour for LAX, ATL and Palm Beach. Back to PIT Sunday AM. Stuart
~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The deflection, according to Gates, is 1/64” per inch of span (41”). Therefore, with a 10# pressure at center the belt should deflect 11/16” = 0.688” = 17.5 mm

The 507C gauge method is VERY temp specific / sensitive. With proper tension he measures 800 N at 33 degr, 1050N at 42 degr, 1360N at 63 degr. From the factory the belts are WAY over-tensioned, and the dealers are instructed NOT to check or touch!!!!

Once the tension is set you should check tracking. Jack up under swing arm, lift rear wheel.
Set in 3rd gear and run at idle. Watch belt carefully, adjust to favor flange side, but not climbing! Watch for a couple minutes! Very sensitive adjustments with the two (6mm allen) adjusters.
Note: The Harley belts are concave to track better (?) but this belt is flat, and will migrate to one side.
$29.90 Part # 08-0350 BELT TENSION GAUGE Scale for easy reference
Designed to work with all belt drive models with a 10 lb. specification

Here are the updated belt tension specs; At time of setup the belt tension should be 2000Nm - -
after 300 - 500 miles the tension should be between 1500Nm to 800Nm. Keep in mind BRP states that the belt is not stretching, the tension is changing due to the rubber motor mounts breaking in.
I know it seems like a large variance but thats the spec.

I check my belt tension in the center of the bottom of the belt just behind the rider footpeg, no need to remove anything. The belt is exposed and visible just behind the rider peg. I have the Motion pro spring gauge and I get 11/16" at 10 pounds of force.

Good job Stuart, that's the way to do it, the only thing I can add is when you take your first ride look at the belt after you put power to the wheel. When you verify your adjustment on the jack by running the spyder the belt will track nicely, once you put power to the wheel the belt will tend to walk to the outside, you may need to make another small adjustment to keep the belt to flange side.
Stuart, are you going to the Valcourt?

[Danimal]

I personally think there's a bit too much worry over this issue of belt tracking and tension. If the dealer adjusts it incorrectly - and it causes a problem - they are going to have to fix that problem.

[TharkunRT]

[quote name='Stuart Ostroff' date='Apr 30 2008, 10:11 PM' post='43479'](edited)
The 507C gauge method is VERY temp specific / sensitive. With proper tension he measures 800 N at 33 degr, 1050N at 42 degr, 1360N at 63 degr. From the factory the belts are WAY over-tensioned, and the dealers are instructed NOT to check or touch!!!!

Stewart -
I'm curious about the info about the dealers being instructed not to check or touch the belt. Is there some documentation from BRP on this or is this just what you were told by a dealer ?

[Danimal]

Mine was loose at the first service - they had to tighten it a bit. It looks like mine is against the flange.... but there is actually a very small gap when you look closely.. appears to be about 1/32"

[Rokonman]

Danimal, on May 1 2008, 09:21 AM, said:

Mine was loose at the first service - they had to tighten it a bit. It looks like mine is against the flange.... but there is actually a very small gap when you look closely.. appears to be about 1/32"

Please have a look at the flange lip and see if the teeth of the belt are leaving an imprint.

[Stuart Ostroff]

I have never actually adjusted my own belt as the tension looks OK and it tracks very close to the flange but no indication that it is rubbing or jumping.

But I expect to be adjusting Rokonman's this Sunday or Monday. We'll post some pix and details.

I am not coming to the factory visit - wish I could - but I have a meeting in WI on 5th and 6th. Planning to ride out there from Pittsburgh on 4th, back on Sat 7th.

Stuart

[Oregon1]

Stuart Ostroff, on May 1 2008, 01:10 PM, said:

I have never actually adjusted my own belt as the tension looks OK and it tracks very close to the flange but no indication that it is rubbing or jumping.

But I expect to be adjusting Rokonman's this Sunday or Monday. We'll post some pix and details.

I am not coming to the factory visit - wish I could - but I have a meeting in WI on 5th and 6th. Planning to ride out there from Pittsburgh on 4th, back on Sat 7th.

Stuart

Stuart Where are those allen screws for adjusting?, im not seeing them .Took off rear covers on frame to no avail. My belt seems to be aligned but look at attached picture.Regards

Attached image(s)

• 

[TharkunRT]

Oregon1, on May 1 2008, 01:34 PM, said:

Stuart Where are those allen screws for adjusting?, im not seeing them .Took off rear covers on frame to no avail. My belt seems to be aligned but look at attached picture.Regards

The adjustment screws are on each side, in this pic you can see the left one.

As for your pic, if the belt did that damage, something is not right, I would report it to the dealer and have it checked and get a replacment part.

[Mark S.]

Tharkun#409, on May 1 2008, 04:05 PM, said:

The adjustment screws are on each side, in this pic you can see the left one.

Do you happen to remember which way to turn the screws? I'm guessing clockwise moves the axle forward...

Regards,

Mark

[Oregon1]

Tharkun#409, on May 1 2008, 02:05 PM, said:

The adjustment screws are on each side, in this pic you can see the left one.

As for your pic, if the belt did that damage, something is not right, I would report it to the dealer and have it checked and get a replacment part.

Thanks Tharkun for the come back . Im use to the old motorcycle way of doing tension adjust.Yes had those allens out and thought they were there just to hold covers in place.Thanks for clarifying that.You know i have proper 1mm clearance on rear, looks good in front, think that plastic got bent in shipping.Dealer has been notified and said i will get a new one .Thanks again and greetings from the Oregon coast

[jpcspyder]

Can someone please give me a step by step instruction on how to adjust the tension on this belt????

When I put 10 pounds on the center of the belt the deflection is no where near 11/16. Now, my gage is very old and may not be accurate but the engineer in me is saying this belt is WAY to tight.

Do I need to loosen the axle nut before I change the tension and if so, why? Which way do you turn the screws to lower the tension? I just don't see how this mechanism works.

Thanks in advance.

[Putt-Putt]

Where do you get one of those tension gauges? This all new to me too. As I never owned a belt drive before. Always chain or drive shaft. So I got to learn to do this too.

[TharkunRT]

jpcspyder, on May 2 2008, 02:14 PM, said:

Can someone please give me a step by step instruction on how to adjust the tension on this belt????
When I put 10 pounds on the center of the belt the deflection is no where near 11/16. Now, my gage is very old and may not be accurate but the engineer in me is saying this belt is WAY to tight.
Do I need to loosen the axle nut before I change the tension and if so, why? Which way do you turn the screws to lower the tension? I just don't see how this mechanism works.
Thanks in advance.

The adjustment system on the Spyder is not all that different than any other bike. You need to loosen the axle nuts, if not, you will not effect the adjustment/tension of the belt.

Once you have the weight off of the rear wheel and have loosened the axle nuts, the two adjustment screws are either turned clock wise to increase the tension, or counter clockwise to decease the tension. ;)

[jpcspyder]

Tharkun#409, on May 2 2008, 09:24 PM, said:

The adjustment system on the Spyder is not all that different than any other bike. You need to loosen the axle nuts, if not, you will not effect the adjustment/tension of the belt.

Once you have the weight off of the rear wheel and have loosened the axle nuts, the two adjustment screws are either turned clock wise to increase the tension, or counter clockwise to decease the tension. ;)

Yeah, I sort of figured it out and you confirmed my assumptions after looking at the thing very carefully. Thanks for that.

So does anybody have a torque spec for the axle nut and also the size of that nut? I can't tell if it is 1 3/8 inch or 35 mm.

As for the tension gage, I snagged mine from an engineering job I had 20 years ago. It is a pretty simple spring model that is made by Dodge/Relience Electric. I just put a 25 pound dumbbell on it and it is pretty accurate. I'm sure you can buy them at an auto parts store.

[Putt-Putt]

Thanks