[golfman]

LOL add the shipping and price together and you have the price I paid at the dealer......$20

[rongon]

Glad I made you laugh but post was for those on here that couldn't find the filters at there dealer and talked about them being on back order, wasn't really about the price......................

golfman, on May 24 2009, 07:12 PM, said:

LOL add the shipping and price together and you have the price I paid at the dealer......$20

[golfman]

Hey guys I know this isn't about the price, but I just bought 4 new oil filters for the Spyder Rotax 990 for 33.00 plus 7 shipping on ebay. Total of roughly 10 dollars and they are delivered right to my door. Not a great price break, but every little bit helps.

[roboqld]

The Australian $ is around 90cents U.S. at the moment
and the price here in Australia from the dealers is
Oil filter $40.50
O ring $9.90
washer $4.30

Unreal!

[Arthur---Mexico City]

Talk about prices. I had a car run into the rear of my Spy. My Spy is an export model. Only the plastic license plate hold got plastered. I cemented it together with epoxy to get by. Since the car that hit me had insurance the Spy agency quoted them $2,000.00 pesos ($154.00 U.S. dollars) for the replacement part which they paid me. I couldn't believe the price. This plastic part weighs about 4 ounces only. I pocketed the money and bought a new plate holder for $11.00 dollars the last time I was in the States. Talk about highway robbery.

[Sapper]

I changed my oil this weekend for the 600 mile service. All of the side panels have to come off and the drain plugs you get to from the bottom. When I bought the bike I went ahead and bought the oil and filter, because the closest dealer is about two hours away. I just wish the dumb &#@ parts person would have told me that I also need two crush washers and the O ring. He knew that I had just bought the bike you would think he would have told me about the other parts. My bad now I know. If it was not for all the panels having to come off it would be pretty easy.

[rrman01]

hey all i did a oil change on saturday and boy those nuts were hard to crack anyway got them and couldnt beleive the oil was so dark and the filter so dark and the bike has only 12700ks on it that about what 10000miles maybe anyway why is there 2 cruch washers mine had 1 brass so what do u think about the oil and filter do u think it was done at the first service

[ulflyer]

rrman01, on 27 June 2011 - 05:02 AM, said:

hey all i did a oil change on saturday and boy those nuts were hard to crack anyway got them and couldnt beleive the oil was so dark and the filter so dark and the bike has only 12700ks on it that about what 10000miles maybe anyway why is there 2 cruch washers mine had 1 brass so what do u think about the oil and filter do u think it was done at the first service

Not sure I'm following you, but are you saying this is only the second (you hope) oil change? They call for changes every 3000 miles, which seems excessive to me if you're using full synthetic oil, but if your machine was done at the first service around 600miles, then thats a long time before you changed it. There is two drain plugs, one for the tank where the dip stick is, and a second one underneath for engine drain. Again, the book says change the washers each time, but I rarely changed them on previous motorcycles and scooters and never had any leaks. Probably will on my RT as I wouldn't want to pull the plastic off a second time.
Did you also change the oil filter? Two filters if you have the eelectric shift.

Edited to add: Svc Mngr at my dealer says its not necessary to change the washers each time nor the "O" rings if they look ok.
I changed mine at 600 and re-used both with no leakage.

This post has been edited by ulflyer: 06 July 2011 - 05:57 AM

[Motogordo1]

Oil change prices as of 7/14/2011 in Bensalem, Pa. (East Coast Cycle Center)
I have a 2011 RTS/SE5 and the prices they quoted me for an oil and filter change plus lubing is as follows.

Labor $64.95 plus parts (5 qts of BRP oil) $12.99/qt
(oil filter) $14.95

Total $146.00 (that's a healthy oil change price) I think most of the cost is because of all the Tupperware that has to be removed to get to anything. Bummer, unless you learn to do it yourself and aren't worried about screwing it up. LOL.
Motogordo
p.s. I forgot about the electric shift oil also. That's another $ 14.95. Now we're up to about $161.00 . At this rate, after paying for 4 oil changes per year for 40 years, the total cost would be $26,000, which is the price I paid for the Spyder. LOL. Don't ask what the price of the Spyder's and the oil changes will be 40 years from now. LOL.

This post has been edited by Motogordo1: 14 July 2011 - 12:19 PM

[SpyderSpouse]

How many of y'all have stripped drain plugs. Figgen dealer stripped DWs at the 600 mile checkup. Now at 3k mile change I get fix their screwup. I guess the good part is I get extra practice removing the side panels........

Any tips on teasing the main filter past the shift linkage on the RTS SE5?????

This post has been edited by SpyderSpouse: 17 May 2012 - 08:56 PM

[Tierhog]

I do my own. Moron must have not used an Allan. I have an SM5 and my shift linkage wasn't even remotely in the way. Aftermarket?

[SpyderSpouse]

Tierhog, on 18 May 2012 - 12:16 AM, said:

I do my own. Moron must have not used an Allan. I have an SM5 and my shift linkage wasn't even remotely in the way. Aftermarket?

I am guessing the SM is different than the SE. The linkage crosses about 1.5 inches outside of the oil filter cover. Maybe it will be fine when I actually do it. I was just looking since I can't undo the drain plug until I have a replacement.......

[Trickie Dick]

Tierhog is right. You need to use a M6 allen to remove the drain plug. It is NOT a torx. A torx will go in but will strip the plug. You will need a M5 for the filter on the SE5. I made the same mistake on my first oil change a few years ago. I was able to get the plug out by seating the M6 socket head completely in the head. Tap it in a little.
One way to avoid this hassle is to go with a gold plug. http://www.goldplug.com/ You can remove the plug with a regular wrench or socket.
One more thing. Here's a thread talking about this very subject. http://www.spyderlov...drain-bolt-head

This post has been edited by Trickie Dick: 18 May 2012 - 07:44 AM

[Tierhog]

I read somewhere that BRP (and many others) design the oil drain plugs to prevent a shearing issue if the bike was to bottom out. Don't know how legitimate that story is, but perhaps the plug can be hardened somewhat in future models.

[Trickie Dick]

I think the biggest issues with the plugs is 1. Since most everything else on the spyder is torx, they assume the drain plugs are as well. So they end up using the wrong thing. What makes it worse is the torx will fit close enough to use but will strip the head with pressure. 2. People do not seat the allen deep enough into the head and this leads to stripping as well. You have to keep it completely seated when you remove them. The factory and the dealers really torque them on. Which is to spec, BTW.