[billybob]

hope this answers some ?s

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[B1TTEN #509]

billybobnbaxter, on Mar 15 2008, 02:24 PM, said:

hope this answers some ?s

darn Bill I can get that Minnesota withour glasses but it is really difficult on a computer screen.

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[billybob]

B1TTEN #509, on Mar 15 2008, 01:50 PM, said:

darn Bill I can get that Minnesota withour glasses but it is really difficult on a computer screen.

ya know i rezize my stuff so small . this little info here after i got done rezize and croping i coud'nt see on the screen hardly and i do that with all my stuff . and save it but when i put it on here bamm my desk ,just about cant take the weight there so big . sorry i'll learn

[B1TTEN #509]

billybobnbaxter, on Mar 16 2008, 12:42 PM, said:

ya know i rezize my stuff so small . this little info here after i got done rezize and croping i coud'nt see on the screen hardly and i do that with all my stuff . and save it but when i put it on here bamm my desk ,just about cant take the weight there so big . sorry i'll learn

Just teasing..

I followed I think it was ken's advice. Gotit up to 80 or so a few times and got on the brakes to heat them I bit and seemed to get rid of the really lound sqealing.

[Arachnophobic]

B1TTEN #509, on Mar 16 2008, 08:00 AM, said:

Just teasing..

I followed I think it was ken's advice. Gotit up to 80 or so a few times and got on the brakes to heat them I bit and seemed to get rid of the really lound sqealing.

Well, my brakes are getting worse. Have about 1500 miles and intermittently my brakes sounds like a big &#@ dump truck coming to a halt. only happens at really slow speeds, <5 mph...almost a complete stop. even continues after i release the brake pedal. wondering if return springs (?) aren't working properly? did the 80 mph and hard on the brakes thing...no help.

[B1TTEN #509]

Arachnophobic, on Apr 5 2008, 10:57 PM, said:

Well, my brakes are getting worse. Have about 1500 miles and intermittently my brakes sounds like a big &#@ dump truck coming to a halt. only happens at really slow speeds, <5 mph...almost a complete stop. even continues after i release the brake pedal. wondering if return springs (?) aren't working properly? did the 80 mph and hard on the brakes thing...no help.

In talking with my dealer , they said the ATVs do the same thiing. CanAm used really hard pads and is the down side of high quailty pads. My are not to bad but is VERY ANNOUYINH!!!!!! I did tell my dealer and BRP IS LISTENING!!!!!

[Arachnophobic]

B1TTEN #509, on Apr 5 2008, 09:11 PM, said:

In talking with my dealer , they said the ATVs do the same thiing. CanAm used really hard pads and is the down side of high quailty pads. My are not to bad but is VERY ANNOUYINH!!!!!! I did tell my dealer and BRP IS LISTENING!!!!!

as soon as i get a dealer here in tx i am going to have them fixed or replaced. the noise makes this thing sound like a rinky dink POS.

[B1TTEN #509]

Arachnophobic, on Apr 6 2008, 03:03 AM, said:

as soon as i get a dealer here in tx i am going to have them fixed or replaced. the noise makes this thing sound like a rinky dink POS.

You got like 23 http://spyder.brp.com/en-US/

[Danimal]

Yeah - and be prepared to wait for their site to open.

http://spyder.brp.com/en-US/

This site takes my very fast connection 12 seconds to load the just the 'intro'.

Then once you get past that (you can click skip intro) - it takes a whopping 22 seconds to load the page with the 3-d Red Spyder that has all the other choices to go to.

Click on Technology - takes another 6 seconds to load that page.

They really need to change this if they want people to actually use their website.

[B1TTEN #509]

Danimal, on Apr 6 2008, 05:38 PM, said:

Yeah - and be prepared to wait for their site to open.

http://spyder.brp.com/en-US/

This site takes my very fast connection 12 seconds to load the just the 'intro'.

Then once you get past that (you can click skip intro) - it takes a whopping 22 seconds to load the page with the 3-d Red Spyder that has all the other choices to go to.

Click on Technology - takes another 6 seconds to load that page.

They really need to change this if they want people to actually use their website.

That is so wierd, mine is a little slower, but no that freaking slow..

[Danimal]

Marc from BRP said they are revamping their websites to increase the speed.

[Marc]

Danimal, on Apr 6 2008, 02:04 PM, said:

Marc from BRP said they are revamping their websites to increase the speed.

Yes he did, but your situation is not the norm Danimal. You have something unique to your set-up...on your end of the connection. The link you just posted above loads within 1-2 seconds for me for intro and I can pop from section to section instantly.

[evoluzione]

Marc, on Apr 6 2008, 11:38 AM, said:

Yes he did, but your situation is not the norm Danimal. You have something unique to your set-up...on your end of the connection. The link you just posted above loads within 1-2 seconds for me for intro and I can pop from section to section instantly.

marc,

i'm not a computer guru but you probably already have the site in your cache. with our dsl connection (and the site not in our cache), it takes 12 seconds to load the intro. when you go to the main page, i waited 21 seconds for it to load but at the bottom left of the browser was a yellow triangle with the note "error on page."

when i go back to the site again (after it is in my cache), it takes 1-2 seconds to load each page.

[Marc]

evoluzione, on Apr 6 2008, 03:32 PM, said:

marc,

i'm not a computer guru but you probably already have the site in your cache. with our dsl connection (and the site not in our cache), it takes 12 seconds to load the intro. when you go to the main page, i waited 21 seconds for it to load but at the bottom left of the browser was a yellow triangle with the note "error on page."

when i go back to the site again (after it is in my cache), it takes 1-2 seconds to load each page.

Works the same when I clear cache. I know it's not super fast...just not unusable. But you are right, that's why cache is used.

[MDR]

Yeah, the brake squeal sucks. I just brought mine in for the first service and told the techs about the brakes. They sprayed and filed and--the squeal is still there. If I go hard on the brakes there is no sound. But if I slow to a stop--5 mph or less--the squeal is bad. Now that it's broken in I'll try what others have suggested on the site by going fast a few times and then hard on the brakes. Hope that helps. At leat I don't have a burn mark on the exhaust!

[Tonga]

MDR, on Apr 6 2008, 05:17 PM, said:

Yeah, the brake squeal sucks. I just brought mine in for the first service and told the techs about the brakes. They sprayed and filed and--the squeal is still there. If I go hard on the brakes there is no sound. But if I slow to a stop--5 mph or less--the squeal is bad. Now that it's broken in I'll try what others have suggested on the site by going fast a few times and then hard on the brakes. Hope that helps. At leat I don't have a burn mark on the exhaust!

My Spyder brakes are just starting to squeal. I thought it might be the car wash soap? Has anyone tried spraying brake clean on the pads to get rid of grime? I'm going to get some and try it, then if that doesn't work I'll try some hard braking to wear the pads in and if that doesn't work I'll hope that some here will come up with an answer!!

[spyderrider]

Are the brake pads on the Spyder semi-metallic or organic?

[Rachmunas]

Mine to are squeaking. Very annoying at 20 miles on the bike!

[Danimal]

Stomp those bad boys!

this will help!

[Mark S.]

MDR, on Apr 6 2008, 04:17 PM, said:

Yeah, the brake squeal sucks. I just brought mine in for the first service and told the techs about the brakes. They sprayed and filed and--the squeal is still there. If I go hard on the brakes there is no sound. But if I slow to a stop--5 mph or less--the squeal is bad. Now that it's broken in I'll try what others have suggested on the site by going fast a few times and then hard on the brakes. Hope that helps. At leat I don't have a burn mark on the exhaust!

The squeal you hear is a high-pitched vibration of the brake pads. It can occur for a number of reasons:

• Pads not properly insulated from the caliper
  
• Pads not properly secured to the caliper
  
• Improper composition of the brake pads
  
• Contamination on the surface of the rotor or brake pads

If I'm not mistaken, the Spyder brake assembly already incorporates an anti-rattle clip. Some have suggested applying an anti-squeak compound on the back side of the pads, or going with a different brake pad altogether. These are all options, but I believe the issue lies with contamination and proper "bed in" of the pad/rotor pairing.

When you apply the brake, your Syder's speed is converted to worn away brake pad material -- brake dust -- and heat. (Part of the rotor is also worn away, but nowhere near as much as the pads.) On properly bedded in brakes, the brake pads actually "float" on a layer of brake dust between the rotor and pads which acts as a "lubricant" for lack of a better word.

If a chemical contaminant gets on the rotor or pads before you bed them in it could coat the pad, rotor or both (especially when the rotors/pads get hot) preventing the pads from wearing properly and depositing the requisite layer of dust on the rotor. Without that fine layer of dust, the pads can chatter -- rapidly grab and release -- instead of slide smoothly over the rotor. The chatter is so rapid it sounds like a squeal. Think of a door hinge that needs lubrication and you get the idea.

Bedding in the brakes ensures the (clean) rotor is coated with a fine layer of necessary brake pad material while avoiding contaminants that might interfere with the process.

To bed in the brakes:

1. You must ensure both the rotor and brake pads are clean and free of any contaminants. Thoroughly clean the rotor (both sides) with a solvent (I like acetone) to remove all oil and/or other residue. To clean the pads it's best to remove the caliper from the brake assembly and pull the pads out. Lay a sheet of fine grit sand paper on a flat surface (grit side up) and scrub the brake pad (material side down) back and forth across it to remove a layer of material. The intent is to remove enough pad material to take any contaminants too.

CAUTION:
SECURELY CHOCK YOUR SPYDER; DO NOT USE THE PARKING BRAKE. IF YOUR SPYDER STARTS ROLLING YOU CAN'T APPLY THE BRAKES. IF YOU APPLY THE BRAKES WITH THE CALIPER REMOVED YOU WILL PUSH THE PISTON ALL THE WAY OUT OF THE CALIPER. IF THAT HAPPENS, ALL THE BRAKE FLUID IN THE LINE BEHIND THE PISTON WILL WIND UP ON THE FLOOR OF YOUR GARAGE/SHOP/DRIVEWAY. Ask me how I know...

If you ignore the above caution, you will have to trailer your Spyder to the nearest dealer and have the brake fluid replaced and the lines bled -- unless you know how to do it yourself.

2. Reinstall the pads being careful not to touch the working sides of the rotor or pads (wear gloves).

3. Select a stretch of road with little or no traffic near where you live. You'll probably need about three to five miles. Use the brakes as sparingly as possible until you can get there; you don't want them to get hot -- yet. Pick a day with no rain and avoid any puddles which might splash road-grime-and-grease contaminated water on your brakes.

4. For the actual bed in procedure you accelerate to 70 - 80 mph, then apply the brakes with a medium to heavy pressure until slowed to 20 - 30 mph; MAKE SURE NO TRAFFIC IS BEHIND YOU. You don't have to apply the brakes hard enough to engage the anti-lock, but don't be afraid to get on them hard -- a 70 to 80 percent effort stop should do it. You are trying to generate brake dust, so GET ON 'EM! Once slowed, immediately accelerate back to 70 - 80 mph. Once back to speed, immediately apply the brakes. Repeat the cycle eight to ten times.

CAUTION:
DON'T STAND UP TO GET MORE LEVERAGE ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. DO I NEED TO EXPLAIN WHY?

CAUTION:
THE BRAKES WILL GET VERY HOT; YOU'LL LIKELY SMELL THEM FOR THE FIRST TIME. DON'T TOUCH THEM! ASIDE FROM BURNING YOURSELF VERY BADLY, YOU WILL CONTAMINATE THE ROTORS AND HAVE TO BEGIN THE WHOLE PROCESS AGAIN -- WITH BLISTERED HANDS AND FINGERS.

CAUTION:
THIS PROCEDURE CAN BE DIFFICULT FOR A NEW RIDER NOT FAMILIAR WITH THE SPYDER -- BE CAREFUL! BETTER YET, FIND SOMEONE WHO IS FAMILIAR WITH THE SPYDER WHO CAN DO IT FOR YOU. IN ANY CASE, IF YOU BEND YOUR SPYDER OR HURT YOURSELF PLEASE REMEMBER -- I WARNED YOU!

5. After eight to ten cycles, pull over and allow the brakes to cool for 15 - 20 minutes before continuing. The cool down is important! Don't drive in traffic until the brakes have cooled. The rotors are going to be very hot and you don't want to sit stopped with the brakes pads clamped on the extremely hot rotors -- this might cause the rotors to warp.

If this doesn't stop the squealing you might need to actually replace the pads. If so, make sure you follow the same bedding in process (minus sanding the pads).

I've bedded in the brakes on every new vehicle (motorcycle, car, Spyder) I've owned for the past 15 years -- no squeaky brakes. Brake bed in should be one of the first things you do when you get a new vehicle, or when you change pads and/or rotors on an old one.

So far (2,000 miles), Spydie doesn't squeak -- unless I get on the throttle too much!


Regards,

Mark

This post has been edited by Mark S.: 12 July 2008 - 08:40 AM