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Becareful with the"m" button Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   MRG#297 

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Posted 09 November 2007 - 09:12 AM

Be careful with the "M" button on the dash. If you press the button too hard it will get stuck in the recess and will not allow your Spyder to start. If this happens pry the button out of the recess with your finger nail. Just thought I would pass this on as this problem kept me up all night trying to figure out why my Spyder would not start.
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#2 User is offline   TharkunRT 

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Posted 09 November 2007 - 10:07 AM

View PostMRG#297, on Nov 9 2007, 06:12 AM, said:

Be careful with the "m" button on the dash. If you press the button too hard it will get stuck in the recess and will not allow to Spyder to start. If this happens pry the button out of the recess with your finger nail. Just thought I would pass this on as this problem kept me up all night trying to figure out why my Spyder would not start.


I posted this in another post but will repeat it here in case it is missed. Put a small amount of silicone lubricant on the M button, should solve futher issues with it sticking. :)
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#3 User is offline   MRG#297 

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Posted 09 November 2007 - 10:34 PM

View PostTharkun#409, on Nov 9 2007, 07:07 AM, said:

I posted this in another post but will repeat it here in case it is missed. Put a small amount of silicone lubricant on the M button, should solve futher issues with it sticking. :)


Roger that. Thanks!
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#4 User is offline   rbnicklin 

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Posted 10 November 2007 - 02:57 PM

My "M" button rarely works. It is not stuck, just does not do anything. I always use the "mode" switch on the front of the left handle bar. Its my first maintenance / warranty issue for my first service.
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#5 User is offline   AWS123 

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Posted 10 November 2007 - 10:19 PM

I ran around the 20 minute road course in Ranco Cordova, (Sacramento) on 4 different bikes.
I was going through everything I could get my hands on while riding it for 20 minutes.

Any way, the "M" button only did anything on 1 of them.
The Mode switch on the handle bar only worked on 2 of them.
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#6 User is offline   B1TTEN #509 

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Posted 14 November 2007 - 06:58 AM

Using the "M" buttong the handle bars is the way to go. Try not to use the the dash one.
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#7 User is offline   rbnicklin 

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Posted 14 November 2007 - 05:50 PM

View PostB1TTEN #509, on Nov 14 2007, 06:58 AM, said:

Using the "M" buttong the handle bars is the way to go. Try not to use the the dash one.



We paid for it. It should work. It is a warranty item. I plan to get it fixed. I just hate having the machine worked on. Something else always seems to go wrong later.
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#8 User is offline   Runeatic 

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Posted 19 November 2007 - 02:37 PM

I also have problems with the M button so now I am using the one on the bar. Also, the temp gauge isn't too accurate and I don't know where the sensor is but when it sits outside here in Florida, it can read 102 when it is 78 and it takes a long while to adjust down.
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#9 User is offline   diamonbird 

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Posted 19 November 2007 - 06:29 PM

My temp. reading is off too! Me need to find out something on this!
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#10 User is offline   mrfix 

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Posted 20 November 2007 - 06:54 AM

View Postdiamonbird, on Nov 19 2007, 06:29 PM, said:

My temp. reading is off too! Me need to find out something on this!

There is a piece of insulation around the sensor and it takes time for the sensor to react, mine is accurate in Ma down to 27 degrees so far, when I take it out of the garage it takes about 10 minutes to go from 45 to 27 degrees. The sensor is not in direct air flow, it's under the right side front panel.
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#11 User is offline   ProviderEx 

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Posted 27 November 2007 - 12:01 PM

everything is working great on mine.
have had it since saturday and have rode the ell out of it.
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#12 User is offline   B1TTEN #509 

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Posted 27 November 2007 - 12:22 PM

:schild27:

View PostProviderEx, on Nov 27 2007, 05:01 PM, said:

everything is working great on mine.
have had it since saturday and have rode the ell out of it.

:schild27:
If you have not been welcomed yet. There was some issue with M button on the dash. Most people are using the one on the handle bars. Easier with gloves on.
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#13 User is offline   smokster 

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Posted 27 November 2007 - 09:10 PM

View Postmrfix, on Nov 20 2007, 03:54 AM, said:

There is a piece of insulation around the sensor and it takes time for the sensor to react, mine is accurate in Ma down to 27 degrees so far, when I take it out of the garage it takes about 10 minutes to go from 45 to 27 degrees. The sensor is not in direct air flow, it's under the right side front panel.


It will take another 9 mos to read 70 degrees in MA as well...sorry had to say it
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#14 User is offline   MRG#297 

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Posted 27 November 2007 - 11:14 PM

View Postmrfix, on Nov 20 2007, 03:54 AM, said:

There is a piece of insulation around the sensor and it takes time for the sensor to react, mine is accurate in Ma down to 27 degrees so far, when I take it out of the garage it takes about 10 minutes to go from 45 to 27 degrees. The sensor is not in direct air flow, it's under the right side front panel.



Yikes! I think mine was behind the trunk. I will move it to the right side as suggested and see what happens.
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#15 User is offline   Tonga 

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  Posted 29 November 2007 - 11:48 AM

View PostMRG#297, on Nov 27 2007, 11:14 PM, said:

Yikes! I think mine was behind the trunk. I will move it to the right side as suggested and see what happens.

I can't wait to try my "M" button. It's going to be a long Winter !!! Come on Spring !! :)
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#16 User is offline   2333 

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Posted 08 June 2008 - 02:18 PM

Hi All. The M button on 2333 will work for setting the clock, trip ODO, etc but will not clear the safety Nazi message. I also have to keep pushing the bar mount switch again and again.....and again untill I FINALLY see the current inacurate temperature. Then sometimes the starter will not engage and I have to repeat the drill. A real pain trying to get to 1000 miles and first factory service.
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#17 User is offline   TharkunRT 

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Posted 08 June 2008 - 02:45 PM

View Post2333, on Jun 8 2008, 12:18 PM, said:

Hi All. The M button on 2333 will work for setting the clock, trip ODO, etc but will not clear the safety Nazi message. I also have to keep pushing the bar mount switch again and again.....and again untill I FINALLY see the current inacurate temperature. Then sometimes the starter will not engage and I have to repeat the drill. A real pain trying to get to 1000 miles and first factory service.

:schild27: to Spyder Talk !

From you description you may well have a defective button, but the first service is recommended at 625 miles, not 1,000. Your issue would be under a warranty claim, so you would not be charged for having this checked sooner than the first service. ;)

This post has been edited by Tharkun#409: 08 June 2008 - 02:46 PM

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