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Front end shakes at 45 mph. Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   010 Black rts 

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 07:05 PM

Hello,

I have a 2010 rts with 8,000 miles on it. Went on a 2500 mile trip last summer and have a bad front end shake at 45 mph. The faster you go over 45 it seems to get better but it is still there. Took it to the dealer and balanced the front wheels and checked alignment, but that wasn't it. Then they said the sway bar was loose and they tightened it, still was there. Then they found a small stone in the back sprocket and took it out and thought they found the problem. It was better for about 500 miles but now it is as bad as it was from the beginning of the problem, don't know what to try next.

Has anyone out there had a problem like this or have any suggestions on what I should try next? Like I said at 45 mph I can actually see my tires shake really bad.

Thanks.
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#2 User is offline   ronnybob 

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 01:35 AM

You could have a bad tire(s) sometimes the belts separate inside and balancing doesn't help.
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#3 User is offline   010 Black rts 

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 05:12 AM

View Postronnybob, on 04 February 2012 - 01:35 AM, said:

You could have a bad tire(s) sometimes the belts separate inside and balancing doesn't help.





I guess the dealer was thinking the same thing or a bad wheel and took two wheels off of a new RT and still had the same shaking. I am wondering if if is actually in the front end or a vibration from the back. Thanks for your reply.
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#4 User is offline   Nancy'sToy 

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 08:23 AM

I think the dealer may have to check the engine clearance to the frame, as well as the anti-vibration rod clearance. These are known problems which manifest themselves by heavy vibration around 4,000-5,500 rpm. It can seem like tire shake, or it can add to any tire or belt shake problem, making it seem worse around that speed. Also, it pays to upgrade the 2010 shocks to the 2011/2012 version, or install aftermarket, and to increase the toe-in to the newest spec...3/32" in 6 feet. Check for play in the shock bushings and the a-arm bushings. That is hard to spot and can cause the problems you are experiencing. Finally, check the wheels for trueness. There have been some that had a lot of runout, causing shaking. These were seldom bent, they were just poorly machined.
-Scotty
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#5 User is offline   010 Black rts 

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 02:25 PM

Thanks for the advice Scotty, I will be dropping it off at the dealer this week and showing them your suggestions.

Thanks again.
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#6 User is offline   010 Black rts 

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 06:15 PM

Hi everyone,

Just picked up my RT-S tonight after a week at the shop. We did have some bad weather over the weekend and the roads are full of salt so I trailered it home, hopefully when it's nice again I can take it out for a test drive. While it was at the dealer they inspected drive belt and sprocket condition, adjusted the belt, checked tire pressures, checked all wheel bearings, checked front wheel balance, and checked wheel alignment. One wheel was out of alignment and adjusted it to 1.5mm toe in. They took it for a road test and said drives straight and did not shake, hopefully we are good again.

Thanks.

010 Black rts
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#7 User is offline   zbunker 

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 01:55 PM

View Post010 Black rts, on 13 February 2012 - 06:15 PM, said:

Hi everyone,

Just picked up my RT-S tonight after a week at the shop. We did have some bad weather over the weekend and the roads are full of salt so I trailered it home, hopefully when it's nice again I can take it out for a test drive. While it was at the dealer they inspected drive belt and sprocket condition, adjusted the belt, checked tire pressures, checked all wheel bearings, checked front wheel balance, and checked wheel alignment. One wheel was out of alignment and adjusted it to 1.5mm toe in. They took it for a road test and said drives straight and did not shake, hopefully we are good again.

Thanks.

010 Black rts


Intersting I have a 2012 RT with 600 miles on it that gives a vibration from around 27 to 34 MPH goes away the comes back from around 66 to 74 MPH. The dealer said the first time i brought it back the said one of the front tires was a little out of balance. At the 600 mile mark I bruoght the problem up again and the dealer sez he cannot fond a problem. I have learned from another forums that there is a steering sensor in there some where that should be checked. I still have to go back there, but at least I'll have something to talk to the guy about.....Thought I'd pass that along...Ron
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#8 User is offline   Tuckmiddle 

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 08:39 PM

I've got occasioinal shaking due to the air bag in the back. It would show manual when I tried to adjust it and adding Ride-on gavives a pretty good shake sometimes around 45 and 53 more than other speeds. Dealer worked on it 7 hours last Saturday and not it won't adjust with the switch at all. For an hour last Sat, it looked like they were on the right track, then it started letting all the air out the second it was put in gear. And when then happens, it gets pretty shaky. Ride-on folks said my situation has not been reported before, but they agree that going from 50 or 90 pounds to zero is giving the balancing skills of the ride-on a real challehge for a few miles. It has been doing well theis week because I've been pumping it up by hand to 50 and it leaks out slowly to about 35. Rode a couple hours today and it was like new!! But, the big geru from another branch of the dealership is looking at it on Tuesday and we'll see what he thinks. I couldn't believe it when I saw the guys hooking up the BUD computer for an air bag problem. Enough said for tonight. More news next Tues and I hope it's good news. I don't like the way we've gone downhill with this problem at all. Bike has 9,000 mi since new in Aug last year and has done pretty well overall.
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#9 User is offline   Nancy'sToy 

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 10:16 PM

View PostTuckmiddle, on 17 February 2012 - 08:39 PM, said:

I've got occasioinal shaking due to the air bag in the back. It would show manual when I tried to adjust it and adding Ride-on gavives a pretty good shake sometimes around 45 and 53 more than other speeds. Dealer worked on it 7 hours last Saturday and not it won't adjust with the switch at all. For an hour last Sat, it looked like they were on the right track, then it started letting all the air out the second it was put in gear. And when then happens, it gets pretty shaky. Ride-on folks said my situation has not been reported before, but they agree that going from 50 or 90 pounds to zero is giving the balancing skills of the ride-on a real challehge for a few miles. It has been doing well theis week because I've been pumping it up by hand to 50 and it leaks out slowly to about 35. Rode a couple hours today and it was like new!! But, the big geru from another branch of the dealership is looking at it on Tuesday and we'll see what he thinks. I couldn't believe it when I saw the guys hooking up the BUD computer for an air bag problem. Enough said for tonight. More news next Tues and I hope it's good news. I don't like the way we've gone downhill with this problem at all. Bike has 9,000 mi since new in Aug last year and has done pretty well overall.
Tuck

Its a pretty sad tech that cannot cure a leak in the RT air suspension, and get the automatic controls working. There are service bulletins for both issues...although you could also have a couple of different failures not covered there. To address the leak, first have them check the valve core in the Schrader valve. A loose or failed valve core is the most common source of leaks in a Spyder that held air before. If that passes the leak test (soap solution) they need to check the air piping and air bag for leaks. The air piping service bulletin may not apply, but it is a good source of information. If everything checks out there (some slow leaks are hard to find), they need to check the release valve function, following the steps in the shop manual. As for the "Manual" indication, the most common cause is the high and low limits on the ACS being set the same. The dealer needs to check the ACS settings with BUDS, and perform the calibration procedure in the service bulltein if the limits are the same. There can be other causes, but that is the most common. BTW, in "Manual", the switch still works...just press it repeatedly to adjust the level (which will not show on the gauge).
-Scotty
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#10 User is offline   010 Black rts 

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Posted 28 February 2012 - 04:37 PM

View Post010 Black rts, on 13 February 2012 - 06:15 PM, said:

Hi everyone,

Just picked up my RT-S tonight after a week at the shop. We did have some bad weather over the weekend and the roads are full of salt so I trailered it home, hopefully when it's nice again I can take it out for a test drive. While it was at the dealer they inspected drive belt and sprocket condition, adjusted the belt, checked tire pressures, checked all wheel bearings, checked front wheel balance, and checked wheel alignment. One wheel was out of alignment and adjusted it to 1.5mm toe in. They took it for a road test and said drives straight and did not shake, hopefully we are good again.

Thanks.

010 Black rts


Took my 2010 RT-S for a 50 mile test drive last night and so far so good, no shake at all. I don't know what was the actual fix but at least it is fixed.

Thanks.
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