08 GS Running Rough
#1
Posted 30 May 2011 - 06:44 PM
I just bought a used 2008 GS with a manual transmission, and I noticed an issue I hope someone may be able to help me with.
The Spyder came with a Two Brothers single exhaust and no fuel controller....
When it gets hot out it will not run right. In between 2500-4000ish RPM in all gears it will start to buck and the tone out of the exhaust is choppy sounding. It only does it in a neutral throttle position, if I roll off or get on it, the spyder will stop bucking. It will also only do it when it gets hot out, not in the morning when it's still cool out; and it will get better in the evening....
I'm thinking a fuel controller is needed, but Im wondering if there is a bigger issue?
Thanks,
Robb
#2
Posted 30 May 2011 - 08:10 PM
trxrspyder, on 30 May 2011 - 06:44 PM, said:
I just bought a used 2008 GS with a manual transmission, and I noticed an issue I hope someone may be able to help me with.
The Spyder came with a Two Brothers single exhaust and no fuel controller....
When it gets hot out it will not run right. In between 2500-4000ish RPM in all gears it will start to buck and the tone out of the exhaust is choppy sounding. It only does it in a neutral throttle position, if I roll off or get on it, the spyder will stop bucking. It will also only do it when it gets hot out, not in the morning when it's still cool out; and it will get better in the evening....
I'm thinking a fuel controller is needed, but Im wondering if there is a bigger issue?
Thanks,
Robb
Sounds like you need the O2 sensor modification kit....works great especially with non-stock exhausts like the two brothers and even the hindle. I know several guys with the two brother and this mod and they run fine.
http://evoluzione.ne...o2_modifier.htm
NY Spyder Ryders Group: http://www.nyspyderryders.com
Spyder Chicks Photos: http://gallery.me.com/spyderdude#100016
#3
Posted 30 May 2011 - 10:15 PM
spyder-dude, on 30 May 2011 - 08:10 PM, said:
http://evoluzione.ne...o2_modifier.htm
How does that work compared to a Two Brothers Fuel controller?
I'm guessing the product works, but i'm admittedly a little leery, I've never heard of them....or that kit.
A lot more information would be great!
#4
Posted 31 May 2011 - 09:05 PM
spyder-dude, on 30 May 2011 - 08:10 PM, said:
http://evoluzione.ne...o2_modifier.htm
#5
Posted 01 June 2011 - 12:21 AM
#7
Posted 01 June 2011 - 11:28 PM
trxrspyder, on 01 June 2011 - 07:40 PM, said:
Its where you basically get rid of the evap canister and block off the purge valve which for me was the rout of the problem. I can be reversed in a few mins for a dealer servicing. Check out "canisterectomy" on the other site. Theres pictures and instructions.
#8
Posted 02 June 2011 - 02:41 PM
tweeder, on 01 June 2011 - 11:28 PM, said:
can I get a link? Lol
it would be nice, the dealer installed the new dps unit today and said the two exhaust seals are blown too (guess it's a common problem). Since I will have the bike apart to fix that and install the o2 modifier, it'd be nice to do that too....
also, has there been any noticeable comfort benefit to wrapping the exhaust with heat tape? I don't want to wast my time if it won't help anything.
since I'm on the topic, what other must do mods are there?
thanks,
robb
#9
Posted 02 June 2011 - 06:50 PM
1: What size bolt do I use to plug the hose with?
2: What size I.D. hose do I get for the extension?
3: How long of a hose will I need?
4: Is there a P/N for a preferred filter for the hose?
#10
Posted 02 June 2011 - 10:39 PM
trxrspyder, on 02 June 2011 - 06:50 PM, said:
1: What size bolt do I use to plug the hose with?
2: What size I.D. hose do I get for the extension?
3: How long of a hose will I need?
4: Is there a P/N for a preferred filter for the hose?
I left the canister there. I plugged the hose that comes from the canister to the purge solenoid. No extra hoses or rerouting or nothing. I took a 3/8 bolt I believe or what ever will screw in and be tight and put a hose clamp on it for good measure.
#11
Posted 03 June 2011 - 06:15 AM
#12
Posted 04 June 2011 - 06:22 PM
DPS has been replaced, they did tell me that it has an exhaust leak...the right side gasket on the transverse Y pipe left out (I noticed that its common...lol)
SO....new gaskets on order and cannisterectomy is completed.
Just need to wait till the Gaskets and O2 modifier come in and take the Spyder out and see if she runs better!
#13
Posted 04 June 2011 - 09:02 PM
trxrspyder, on 04 June 2011 - 06:22 PM, said:
DPS has been replaced, they did tell me that it has an exhaust leak...the right side gasket on the transverse Y pipe left out (I noticed that its common...lol)
SO....new gaskets on order and cannisterectomy is completed.
Just need to wait till the Gaskets and O2 modifier come in and take the Spyder out and see if she runs better!
FYI, the BRP Y-pipe gaskets are know to fail a lot. They just don't last very long. A lot of us are are now using a Honda GL-1800 exhaust gaskets, part no. 18392-MAM-000. Your dealer may not want to install this gasket in the replacement unless he is a honda dealer as well. You can alway ask. BTW, the gasket is cheaper than the BRP one as well. I think I paid $14 for 2 of them at a local Honda dealer. The gasket is a much better quality, i.e. longer lasting than the BRP gasket.
#14
Posted 09 June 2011 - 06:47 PM
UPDATE:So this weekend I got some serious wrenching time in on the spyder!
Fixed the exhaust gasket leak (What a difference in sound!), the right side gasket was straight up missing! lol I also got the o2 modifier, and their air filter on (ripped out the straw at the beginning of the air-box too) + the cannisterectomy. As for my results....98% better! not 100% but close. The bucking is mostly gone, but it still seems to have a dead spot in first gear, hard to explain but i'll be easing off the clutch and rolling on the throttle...when I hit the spot i have to get on the throttle a lot harder or it'll stall. Maybe I still need a fuel controller????
I'm also noticing a clutching (SM5) issue....it will click into the next gear (I can hear and feel it) but when i let the clutch back out it will pop back into the previous gear. At first i thought it was just me, but it's starting to happen way too often. Where do I start with this issue?
So....to sum up my questions:
Do I still need a fuel controller, or is there another issue?
Whats up with my manual transmission?
#15
Posted 07 August 2011 - 02:31 PM
willpower25, on 03 June 2011 - 06:15 AM, said:
What do u mean it took a year to tune it in?
#16
Posted 08 August 2011 - 07:43 PM
trxrspyder, on 02 June 2011 - 06:50 PM, said:
1: What size bolt do I use to plug the hose with?
2: What size I.D. hose do I get for the extension?
3: How long of a hose will I need?
4: Is there a P/N for a preferred filter for the hose?
I completed the canisterectomy on my 08 GS Spy and the unit runs better. I just used a union for the two hoses to get the gas fumes away from the motor to the pan at the bottom of cooling fan. Plugges the short hose and was easy. Thanks to all that post all this technical information.
#17
Posted 14 August 2011 - 08:58 PM
#18
Posted 15 August 2011 - 08:02 AM
renrev, on 07 August 2011 - 02:31 PM, said:
the box came set up for the bike and pipe but it still dnt take all the stubbling out so it took me about 1 summer to get it dialed in perfect, i went thru all the settings 1 by 1 and adjusted them to where the bike runs perfect
This post has been edited by willpower25: 15 August 2011 - 08:03 AM

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