[Babymoose]

Any one had one yet on an RT? I took mine in for it's first service 3 days ago. As I pulled in to my dealers lot, the salesman was there unloading some quads, he came over to me & said "did you put a different pipe on or something?. It seems to have a bit of a growl". I told him no. When I talked to the service manager I told him that the fuel mileage seemed to be bad - got the usual "oh, these RT's are heavier & pushing more surface through the air". I said no it's as bad or worse than it was on day one. Any way they phoned me back and said I had a cracked header pipe. I can't remember which cylinder but I think he said it was on a weld. They said it is warranty and have the pipe on order and should have it fixed early next week. I will re-post when I get the finished repairs. My better half has been ryding it the last 7or 8 hundred kilometers so I don't know when it started running bad. Just curious if this is the first cracked header pipe.

[frank3]

Last Friday, I left home (St. Joseph, MO) and rode to Golden, CO with my golf clubs to play golf with my brother. During trip there, I noticed lots of heat by left foot rest and rode most of the way with my foot on the outter portion of the foot rest. Played golf Saturday morning and that afternoon, thought about ridding to Estes Park. # miles from brothers home, thought I heard a different sound in exhaust. Went back to brothers and called local BRP dealer in Denver (RPM Motors). They told me to bring it in. Got there and they looked it over and said it all looked normal. Played golf again on Sunday and Monday morning, started back home early in the AM. Got about 20 miles N.E. of Colby, KS on HWY83 and exhaust let loose alltogether. Didn't have cell ph. service and rode with loud exhaust to Mankato, KS. Still no cell service (ATT). Used the cell ph. of a local and called my brother-in-law back home to bring trailer and come get me and RT. Took the RT to K.C. dealer. Broken exhaust pipe at weld. I'll attach a picture latter.

[frank3]

[Babymoose]

frank3, on 11 June 2010 - 12:26 PM, said:

Exhaust Pipe Break.jpg

Thanks Frank. I had heard of yours and saw the pic.I went to my dealer yesterday to pick up a loaner RT while mine is waiting for the new pipe. While there they showed me my cracked weld, it is exactly the same weld as yours but must not have been going on for as long as the separation isn't there. While mine is in the shop they think they may do the recall on the SE clutch as they have heard the bulletin is coming out. So far it seems to be just the 2 of us. It would probably be a good idea for everyone to check that weld closely as mine isn't that visible to the naked eye and we didn't notice the exhaust note change or the left side hot foot. The dealer just picked up on it while doing the first service. Glad we went a little over on the mileage before bringing it in for the service.

[RadTechRyder]

Our 2010 Spyder RT-SM has also suffered the broken pipe issue at the exact same area as the photo shows. Complete circular break in the pipe. We had lots of discolored foil insulation and the belt had to be subjected to excessive heat. The dealer suggested the belt can handle 250 degrees F but prolonged exposure to exhaust would be hotter than that. The head pipe is loose at the head and we were getting some backfiring indicating cold air being drawn into the exhaust - all this adds up to a bad start for our CanAM experience. 3500 miles and we got hit with this. I was not pleased to see that we are the only owners to have had this happen. I suspect either some design flaw in the engine mounts, exhaust head pipe clamp or just some really bad stainless steel pipe - it is very, very thin wall pipe.

[zeebill]

Babymoose, on 12 June 2010 - 10:07 AM, said:

Thanks Frank. I had heard of yours and saw the pic.I went to my dealer yesterday to pick up a loaner RT while mine is waiting for the new pipe. While there they showed me my cracked weld, it is exactly the same weld as yours but must not have been going on for as long as the separation isn't there. While mine is in the shop they think they may do the recall on the SE clutch as they have heard the bulletin is coming out. So far it seems to be just the 2 of us. It would probably be a good idea for everyone to check that weld closely as mine isn't that visible to the naked eye and we didn't notice the exhaust note change or the left side hot foot. The dealer just picked up on it while doing the first service. Glad we went a little over on the mileage before bringing it in for the service.

Having spent a lot of working time as a pipefitter and welder amd looking at that picture I would say initially the weld eith had not enough penatration or was running in too hot and effected the strength of the metal of the pipe. It became a weak spot in the pipe and something put tension on it and that is the result. Perfect circular break, almost too hard to even do? So much for the many people who saqid at one time that these pipes had inner liners in them because from that picture it sure doesn't look like it. Thanks for the pictures as I now will keep an eye on that area. Good Luck on the fix! Bill

[frank3]

Zeebill, While the dealer was making repairs to my RT for the broken pipe, I had a chance to closely examine the pipe (both peices)laid out on a table, after removal. The break was exactly where the double wall thickness pipe was welded to the thinner single walled pipe. Working with this difference, requires greated skill than would of normally been required and, in the photo, you'll notice that there is at least a 3/8" deflection in the two peices while they were still bolted up. Indicates to me that there was some real stress being applied to this pipe.

[RadTechRyder]

frank3, on 26 July 2010 - 11:54 AM, said:

Zeebill, While the dealer was making repairs to my RT for the broken pipe, I had a chance to closely examine the pipe (both peices)laid out on a table, after removal. The break was exactly where the double wall thickness pipe was welded to the thinner single walled pipe. Working with this difference, requires greated skill than would of normally been required and, in the photo, you'll notice that there is at least a 3/8" deflection in the two peices while they were still bolted up. Indicates to me that there was some real stress being applied to this pipe.

That was my reason for commenting on the possibility of an engine mount or even a head flange design issue. For an exhaust pipe to break 12 to 14 inches from the head indicates to me a design question. Time will tell I guess. Sure wish our dealer would ante up a loaner as we are on week 2 waiting for this pipe to show up with the good weather burning up in the North West.

[Doc Hinckley]

Bummer, My 2010 RT-S has 1400 miles on it and the pipe just broke about 125 miles ago. Noticed a strong smell of exhaust and thought it was from a vehicle in from of me. I couldn't hear it at highway speed with all the road noise but noticed it when I got home yesterday. It is broken through just like the photo. I'm going to make a temporary band to put around it so I can get it to the dealer in Fort Worth tomorrow and then just wait and see how long it takes. Will get the recall on the clutch (SE) and steering done as well.

[mtnstar]

Having been a certified welder for 35 years just buy looking at the photos, it looks to me like the robot was off the mark and missed the weld point aand just barely caught the edges enough to hold it tempararely. Somebody that watches the robot wasn't paying attention.

[dondor959]

Have had no header problems but when I took my RT in for a check up they found a hole in the belt caused by a rock (techs assumption) 300 dollars. All I did was have them check out the machine to make sure it was safe to ride to CA form MN in June. I didn't want any problems on the road. We have just over 8000 miles on it. While down for the belt I'll have them check the pipe. Appreciate the info. The wife and I love this RT of ours (a 2010) but it sure has a high maintenance price tag that goes along with it. Wonder if the 2011s are as bad. Think our next one will be a Honda Goldwing trike so we won;t have all that labor charges in removing Tupperware.
dondor959

This post has been edited by dondor959: 21 May 2011 - 08:14 AM

[Doc Hinckley]

I found that when the pipe broke it was offset just like Frank's. That would indicate to me there is an alignment problem from point A to B causing the stress at that point. I did this quick fix using light gauge sheet metal and SS worm clamps. This will get me to the dealer without causing any further damage. Also, when the dealer replaces the pipe I'm going to put a band clamp on the joint such as Summit Racing's SUM-693200 clamp. The header pipe measures 2.12 inch diameter so the 2 inch clamp should work. Here's a shot of my temporary fix.

[pman]

Hello all

This is my first post and I have to make a post reporting that I have this problem with my Can Am with only 1291 miles on it and 3 months old. I just brought a used 2011 RT-S SE5 and I only had if for a week when I noticed my exhaust sounded louder than normal and was backfiring yesterday when I was shifting. I spent several hours searching spyder forums and found out it could possibly be the split exhaust pipe issue.

I didn't remove the side panels to check but I did remove the panel where you check your oil and could reach my hand back there and feel the break. I used a flashlight to provide light for me to take a picture. I forwarded the picture to the dealer to see if they will order the part without me coming in. When the part arrives call me and I can bring it in to avoid the Spyder being in the shop any longer than necessary. I would rather have it sit in my garage instead of outside at their place waiting for parts. I haven't heard back from the dealer yet.

This really sucks because I have been wanting a Spyder since I first saw it a couple of years ago and now that I have one it has a problem a week later after ownership.