[burg650]

It's time for my next oil change and all this talk about different oils has left me not knowing which oil I should use. The two I am considering is Mobile 4T and BRP XPS, what else should I consider.

[KenB]

If you want the best synthetic get AMSOIL, world wide or Motul, west coast. Also you can use 10w-40 with no problems but be sure it is rated for motorcycles and wet clutches. I would suggest you don't use "any" oil rated SM no matter who makes. Supposedly there is one manufacturer that says their "SM" rated oil has no friction modifiers. Keep in mind I can say anything but it may or may not be true. I do know for fact that the motorcycle wet clutch rated synthetic oils have no friction modifiers. Also I can help you the get the amsoil at a lower price than the dealers charge. you can contact me via krb1945@yahoo.com

And just to let you know you have probably just stirred up a hornets nest asking about the best oils to use... because there are hundreds of opinions on the best ones... if you feel comfortable using a particular brand and you trust that brand then that is your best bet especially if it is a pure synthetic or synthetic blend.

[golfman]

I went to Walmart and bought Shell Rotella Synthetic. Seems to work well. My bike only has about 6500 miles on it though.

[jomion]

golfman, on 06 June 2010 - 12:31 PM, said:

I went to Walmart and bought Shell Rotella Synthetic. Seems to work well. My bike only has about 6500 miles on it though.

BE CAREFUL and read the label with the Shell Rotella Synthetic at Walmart...They have changed the formula on the 10W40 and it is now SM rated which is NOT good for the Spyder wet clutch. Be sure that it is SL rated.

You obviously can't go wrong with the OEM oil. Myself, I use Castrol Power RS Racing 4T Synthetic oil which is available for around $9 a quart. I bought it on sale, and got it with a case discount for $7.65 a quart.

As others have said, AMSOIL is also a good choice.

[Roadkill]

burg650 said:

It's time for my next oil change and all this talk about different oils has left me not knowing which oil I should use. The two I am considering is Mobile 4T and BRP XPS, what else should I consider.

AMSOIL MCF 10W40 is the best choice of the lot.

Ride on.
Roadkill

[spyderrider]

burg650, on 06 June 2010 - 10:11 AM, said:

It's time for my next oil change and all this talk about different oils has left me not knowing which oil I should use. The two I am considering is Mobile 4T and BRP XPS, what else should I consider.

I have over 30,000 on my bike and all I have used is Shell Rotella T. It's half the price of the BRP oil (Castrol) and I figure if big semi's can run with it it should be ok. I wrote to the Shell Test Lab and they assured me the the old Rotella T and the new formula will not harm our wet clutches. Like I said I have 30,000 + and she runs terrific. Oh yeah, I do a complete oil change every 5,000 and I never need to add oil in between times. Just me 2 cents worth.

[jomion]

spyderrider, on 06 June 2010 - 06:44 PM, said:

I wrote to the Shell Test Lab and they assured me the the old Rotella T and the new formula will not harm our wet clutches.

I agree with you that the Rotella T Synth is a very good oil. I used it prior to the formula change with the same results as you. However, the BRP owners manual CLEARLY states NOT to use a SM formulation, and the "new and improved" Rotella is just that. Shell may tell you that it's "fine to use" so that you'll continue to buy their product. But in choosing sides, I'm going with the manufacturer because they say to stay away from the SM grade. The difference between SL and SM is that additives are put in to make the oil more "slippery" which can't be good for the clutch in the long run.

[KenB]

I used the shell rotella for break in before they added the friction modifiers which changed the rating to SM. Friction modifiers are a "no-no" for wet clutches.

Someone also stated if semi's could run it, it must be ok. I'm wondering if semi's have wet clutches or do they run dry clutch plates like standard shift cars and trucks.

Choose your oil carefully... meaning save yourself some possible headaches and don't use any SM rated oil in your Spyder or wet clutch motorcycle. Use a product you trust and feel comfortable using. I encourage you to use a good quality oil and if it isn't one of the top name pure synthetics change it often. A leading cycle magazine did a controlled test a few years back and their finding was that Dino oils were 50 percent sheared by 2000 miles. Meaning the oil was totally worn out and was not lubricating. The leading motorcycle pure synthetics were only 8 percent sheared at 2000 miles. Meaning they were not hurt and were safe to continue running... change the oil filter and keep on cruising. ken krb1945

[widowmaker2011]

Roadkill, on 06 June 2010 - 05:26 PM, said:

AMSOIL MCF 10W40 is the best choice of the lot.

Ride on.
Roadkill

NEW! AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil (MCF)
AMSOIL Synthetic Motorcycle Oils have been reformulated with new high performance additive technology that provides even greater multi-functional benefits for the special requirements of motorcycle applications. These independent and exclusive new AMSOIL formulations provide second-to-none viscosity protection for hot-running American and foreign motorcycle engines, transmissions and primary chaincases. Performance specifications include:
Recommended for Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki, BMW, Husqvarna and KTM motorcycles calling for a 10W-40 or 20W-40 viscosity, providing superior protection in engines and transmissions. API SG, SL/CF; JASO MA



Why use a heavier 10w40 synthetic when the manual calls for 5w40??

[BeRight]

The only oil I was able to find that meets the owners manual specs is Castrol R4 Superbike 5W-40 fully synthetic-surely there are others?. I use this oil but it should be noted that BRP no longer offers an oil that meets their own specs - so if your oil change is done by an authorized dealer they will use a blend(winter or summer)-go figure.

[burg650]

I went to the motorcycle shop where I buy my stuff and they told me the best oil to use in my spyder because of the clutch is Motul 300V Factory Line 10w40 T4 racing oil, any knows of this oil.

[D YATES]

BeRight, on 10 June 2010 - 12:32 AM, said:

The only oil I was able to find that meets the owners manual specs is Castrol R4 Superbike 5W-40 fully synthetic-surely there are others?. I use this oil but it should be noted that BRP no longer offers an oil that meets their own specs - so if your oil change is done by an authorized dealer they will use a blend(winter or summer)-go figure.

I agree it was the only one which meet BRP spec's it comes down to there is a lot of oils out there, but if your concerned about what to use, buy it from BRP that way you know it is right. Read below about castrol oil

CAN-AM

(Includes BOMBARDIER)
Spyder SM5/ SE5, 998cm³ (2008-2010)


Engine

CASTROL POWER 1 RACING
A full synthetic four-stroke SAE 5W-40 engine oil suitable for use in high performance and competition four-stroke, Japanese and European motorcycle engines, including all high performance multi-cylinder, multi-valve, V-Twin, air or water-cooled sports or race replica models. Castrol Power 1 Racing has a race proven formula that demonstrates outstanding clutch friction control, gear wear control, engine wear protection and cleanliness in competition applications. Exceeds JASO MA, MA2 and API SJ.

Service Refill Capacity: 3.9*, 4.3* Litres

[spyderrider]

Since Rotella T has gone to an SM rating just to be safe I'm going to go with Castrol Syntec 5W-40. Everything I have read says it should be good without any problems with the clutch.

[Donzo]

I use Mobile 1 race 4T synthetic - it has the right rating and my Spyder has been perfect - 21,000 miles now.
I used the Rotella in my motorcycles with no problems....but, with the change to SM rating I would not use it regardless of what anyone says - SM indicates friction modifiers and they are no-nos for the wet clutch. There are places to go cheap, oil is not one of them.

The Mobile 4T is $9.95 at Wally world

[DragonSpyder]

I use the Full Synthetic BRP oil that was called for when the Spyder came out. You can find it at a discount on several websites.

[KenB]

Meeting the requirements is fine but I prefer to exceed BRP's requirements. I then know I have put the best I can get in my engines. That means AMSOIL OR Motul. Higher cost but worth the money to me.

Your are aware that BRP doesn't put the oil weight on their containers. You don't really know if it is 5-40 or 10-40 or 0w-40 and it could even be 20-50. Their oil is a blend? Being a blend of synthetic and dino oil... I know you don't believe they would make it a higher percentage of synthetic when the synthetic is more expensive and they are in business to make high profits. When I buy Motul or AMSOIL I feel like I am getting what I pay for because they are pure synthetics with no dino oil added. Ken krb1945

This post has been edited by KenB: 12 June 2010 - 02:04 PM

[burg650]

Well for this oil change I decided to go with the Mobile 1 4T 10W40, it seem that most are using this oil. Next oil change I will look again what is being used and if for any reason I here different Mobile 1 4T will stay in till next time. The design of the oil change tells me that when I drain the oil from the oil tank and the engine and fill the oil tank with new oil then start the engine there will not be any oil until it pumps from the tank to the engine, I am sure it takes a second or two to get oil in the engine but this does not seem like a smart design.

[KenB]

Burg650... I change the oil on our three spyders and several other friends spyders. The oil light has very little on time after a change... maybe 2 seconds after start up. I always drain them hot, good for red fingers, and let them drain for 1 hour or so while doing other things. I find my engine maintenance obsessiveness makes me want every drop of old oil out.

I am aware that some dealers, not to be named by me, are using a siphon to drain the tank and are not draining the engine case at all but are still charging for a full oil change. There is about a qt in the engine case... maybe a little more.

Even when throughly drained the oil light goes out in about 2 seconds and with the oil that is on the bearings there is no danger of damaging the engine. Ken krb1945

[IWN2RYD]

Oh man... I just started this path.. Now I am even more confused!!! There is only one oil that meets the BRP specs? But hardly anyone is using it?

What to use? I am so confused!!!!!!! (RT-S owner)

[KenB]

The reason most people aren't using it, BRP oil, is because it is a mixture of dinosaur oil and synthetic. Any pure synthetic is better than a blend if it is in the weight range or close to it and rated for motorcycles and wet clutches. Take a look at the factory oil jug and see if it tells you the weight of oil in the container. If they haven't changed it recently they don't tell you the weight of their oil... now having said that they, BRP, are reading these forums too so they may have corrected that oversite. If you are concerned about the so called 5W-40 rating and you didn't make it yourself... you can't be 100% certain it is what it is claimed to be no matter which oil you use. You pay your money and hope it contains what it says on the label.

All of us are concerned about the quality of the oil being installed in these expensive machines. That is why we are using the oils we use. Many of us use the top rated synthetics because they are the best available is as of this date. Ken krb1945